Items We Check
This is a brief description of items we check. In many homes this works out to be 600 to 1000 items. The list for rooms, bathrooms gets multiplied by the number of rooms being inspected. For a detailed list see below. Every home is unique and the home inspection will tailor the inspection for the specific home:
Brief List
- The flashing and trim.
- All exterior doors, decks, stoops, steps, stairs, porches, railings, eaves, soffits, fascias, grading, and walkways.
- And report as in need of repair any spacings between intermediate balusters, spindles, or rails for steps, stairways, balconies, and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than four inches in diameter.
- The vegetation, surface drainage and retaining walls when these are likely to adversely affect the building.
- And describe the exterior wall covering
-
- The basement.
- The foundation
- The crawlspace.
- The visible structural components.
- Any present conditions or indications of active water penetration by probing a representative sampling of structural components where deterioration is believed to be present or where clear indications of deterioration are present.
- And report any general indications of foundation movement that are observed, such as but not limited to sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames or floor slopes.
- The heating system and describe the energy source and heating method using normal operating controls.
- And report as in need of repair electric furnaces which do not operate.
- And report if inspector deemed the furnace inaccessible.
Check accessible supply vents for operation
- The central cooling equipment using normal operating controls.
We will not operate AC equipment or systems if exterior temperature is below 65 degrees for at least 24hours. Fahrenheit or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment.
- Inspect the main water shut off valve.
- Inspect the water heating system.
- Flush toilets.
- Run water in sinks, tubs, and showers.
- Inspect the interior water supply including all fixtures and faucets.
- Inspect the drain, waste and vent systems, including all fixtures.
- Describe any visible fuel storage systems.
- Inspect the drainage sump pumps testing sumps with accessible floats.
- Inspect and describe the water supply, drain, waste and main fuel shut-off valves, as well as the location of the water main and main fuel shut-off valves.
- Inspect and determine if the water supply is public or private.
- Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously.
- Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in installation and identification of hot and cold faucets.
- Inspect and report as in need of repair mechanical drain-stops that are missing or do not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs.
- Inspect and report as in need of repair commodes that have cracks in the ceramic material, are improperly mounted on the floor, leak, or have tank components which do not operate.
- The service line.
- The meter box.
- The main disconnect.
- And determine the service amperage.
- Panels, breakers and fuses.
- The grounding.
- The bonding.
- A representative sampling of switches, receptacles, light fixtures, and ground circuit interrupters.
- And report the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring if readily visible.
- And report on any GFCI-tested receptacles in which power is not present, polarity is incorrect, the receptacle is not grounded, is not secured to the wall, the cover is not in place, the ground fault circuit interrupter devices are not properly installed or do not operate properly, or evidence of arcing or excessive heat is present.
- The service entrance conductors and the condition of their sheathing.
- The ground fault circuit interrupters with a GFCI tester.
- And describe the amperage rating of the service.
- And report the absence of smoke detectors.
- Service entrance cables and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the integrity of the insulation, drip loop, or separation of conductors at weatherheads and clearances.
- The fireplace, and open and close the damper door if readily accessible and operable.
- Hearth extensions and other permanently installed components.
- And report as in need of repair deficiencies in the lintel, hearth and material surrounding the fireplace, including clearance from combustible materials
- The insulation in unfinished spaces.
- The ventilation of attic spaces.
- Mechanical ventilation systems.
- And report on the general absence or lack of insulation.
- Open and close a representative number of doors and windows.
- Inspect the walls, ceilings, steps, stairways, and railings.
- Inspect garage doors and garage door openers by operating first by remote (if available) and then by the installed automatic door control.
- And report as in need of repair any installed electronic sensors that are not operable or not installed at proper heights above the garage door.
- And report as in need of repair any door locks or side ropes that have not been removed or disabled when garage door opener is in use.
- And report as in need of repair any windows that are obviously fogged or display other evidence of broken seals.
- Check cabinets, drawers
- Verify operation of fan
- Verify operation of stove and refrigerator
- Check plumbing
- Verify integrity of firewall
- Verify operation of garage door
- Verify presence of garage door safety features
- Door to interior is a fire rated door
Detailed List
If condominium, only owner-responsible items evaluated in this inspection.
Look for modification that may have been done without permits
Snow cover on exterior allows only peripheral, if any, evaluation of much of exterior.
Some non‑original construction has been done on this property. We recommend that an anonymous check be made with the applicable municipality’s building and housing division to see when this address was last permitted without revealing your reasons.
Shed/Hot Tub/Pool/Playground/Sauna/Tennis Courts not inspected
Well/Private sewage disposal not evaluated.
No gutter over entry at eave (S, A).
Some rain gutter components may be likely to leak.
Substantial debris in gutters (M, B).
Poor slope in rain gutters (M, A)
Gutters corroded (M, B)
Some downspouts missing (M, B).
Damaged or loose downspouts (M, B).
Corrosion or rust apparent at downspounts (M, B).
Leaks or decay at downspouts (M, B).
No extensions on downdrains (M, B).
Extensions on downdrains do not carry water away from house
Corrosion or rust apparent at extensions (M, B).
Leaks or decay at extensions (M, B).
Splashbocks do not carry water away from house (M, B).
Corrosion/leaks at splashblocks (M, B).
Splits in wood of fascia (M, C).
Evidence of leaks/stains in soffit/fascia–possible ice/debris dam/no drip edge (M, A).
Unscreened vent openings in soffits (M, C)
Evidence of leaks under eaves–possible ice/debris dam (M, A).
Wood at soil at front porch/stoops/stairs (M, A).
Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at front porch/stoops/stairs (S, A).
Settlement of porch away from house with trip hazard (S, A).
Support posts for roof over porch possibly pulling roof down with settlement (M, A)
Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose–front porch/stoops/stairs (S, A).
Weathered railing/deck boards on front porch (S, A)
Stair related concerns exist at the front porch: Stairs poor lit/spacing between balusters on rail too wide (S, A)
Storm or screen door automatic closer in disrepair (P, B).
Screen door has torn screen/broken window/hardware disrepair (P, B).
Front/Side/Rear door hardware disrepair/broken window/poor fit/split/severely weathered/dragging on floor/doesn’t stay shut without locking (S ,A).
Planter settling away from house/deteriorating (M, B).
Trees or shrubs too close to house (M, B).
Concrete surface broken on walks (M, A).
Trip hazard on walks due to settling and/or buckling (S, A).
Wood at soil at walk (M, A).
Significant cracks exist at the garage‑house/chimney‑house junction(s) (M, A).
Wood touching soil at foundation exterior wall or cover (M, B)
Minor cracks in foundation-‑probably represent primarily a cosmetic concern-‑patch (M, A).
Medium sized cracks in foundation or wall. Could consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice.
Major foundation or wall cracks/settlement/bulging/out of plumb. Should consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice.
Cracks in the outside wall are vertical/horizontal/diagonal (see notes above).
Exterior wall brick mortar deteriorating (M, A).
Exterior wall siding is damaged/has no vent holes (M, A).
New stucco may be prone to cracking shortly after installed/is deteriorating (M, A).
Possible asbestos siding on this house. Contact an industrial hygienist about this issue (S, A).
Ventilation openings on the house are unscreened (M, A).
Evidence of possible previous fire on the exterior of the house (M, A).
Vines reduce the opportunity to inspect/has or may result in damage to sidewalls, etc. of the house (M, A).
There is apparently some span sag over windows/doors/openings in the exterior wall of this home (M, A).
Parging deteriorating/missing on foundation wall (P, C)
Panels/shingles/masonry/concrete missing/split/loose/delaminating/deteriorating on exterior walls (M, A).
Grading around perimeter of house flat or toward house (M, B).
Concrete at house perimeter slopes toward house (M,A).
Minor/Major paint peeling in some exterior areas (M, B).
Entire house appears to need repainting (M, A).
Window screens missing (M, C).
Window screens damaged (M, B).
Some double pane windows have evidence of condensation (M, C).
Some windows cracked/broken (M, B).
Some windows appear to not be weather tight (M, B).
Expect some casements to not operate properly (M, B).
Window air conditioning/evaporative cooler unit(s) appear to not be level/firmly supported (S, A).
Exterior wood around window(s) deteriorating (M, B)..
Air circulation around window air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit appears blocked (trees, shrubs, etc. block the unit) (M,A).
Window air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit is noisy/dusty/rusted/corroded/leaks/leaf riddled (M, A).
Housing covers on the window air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit are not all in place (M, A).
System winterized.
Window evaporative cooler drain line missing/doesn’t take water away from house (M, B).
South or west face window air conditioning unit is not protected by shade or awning (M, A).
Basement window(s) wood deteriorating (S, A).
Two pane basement window shows some condensation and so the glass may need replacement (M, A).
Basement window broken (S, A).
Basement windows appear to be below grade without window wells (M, A).
Inadequate window wells (M, A).
Window wells not covered with rain repelling cover (M, B)
No grid over window wells near patio/walk, etc, (M, A)
Caulking/sealing around outside wall penetrations appears poor (M, A).
No cover over outlet/switch/junction box at exterior (S, A)
Wire connections exposed outside due to no junction box/no conduit (S, A)
Lamp cord used outside in lieu of “hard wire” (S, A).
Unachored electrical boxes (S, A).
Inoperable/loose/inadequate/broken outlets on exterior (S, A).
Wired taped at junctions (S, A).
Ungrounded 3 prong outside outlets–use 2 prong or ground (S, A)
Reversed electrical polarity at exterior outlets (S, A).
Switch defect exists on exterior switch (S, A).
Exterior GFCI outlet not operating properly (M, A).
Exterior outlet not properly weatherstripped (S, A).
Exterior switch not properly weatherstripped (S, A).
Faucet splashblocks recommended (M, B).
Outside faucet dripping (M, A).
Evaporative cooler may still be/appears to have been connected in the winter with possible freeze to the line (S, A).
Evaporative cooler appears to be disconnected during the normal operating season. We are unable to fully check the cooler as a result (M, A).
Possible freeze to hose bib/faucet (S, A).
Hose faucet froze previously and may leak at inside wall (M, A).
Air conditioning unit(s) not level (M, A). This results in a less efficiently operating unit and many times results in a shorter useful life of the unit.
Inadequate or no platform on the exterior air conditioner unit (M, A).
Air circulation around exterior air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit appears blocked (trees, shrubs, etc. block the unit) (M,A).
Outdoor temperature too cool to allow for evaluation of central air conditioning.
Air conditioning oil heating elements not on for at least 24 hours prior to inspection and so air conditioning not evaluated.
The exterior air conditioner unit is breakered/fused at a level that is greater than that for which the unit was designed (M, A).
Electrical service line to house too close to ground (S, A).
The pole-to-house wires are not drip looped where they connect at the house (e.g. at the masthead or near the anchor) (S, A).
Building/Trees/Antenna touching electrical service line to house (S, A).
The electrical meter base appears loose (S, A).
Non-conduited wire appears too close to ground level (S, A). Check if can conduit without complete exterior upgrade.
The main breaker/fuse on the house wiring is 30 40 50 60 70 80 100 125 150 200 Other None (S, A).
The service wires that extend from the telephone pole to the house are frayed. Consider contacting the electric company to replace these (S, A).
The main breaker/fuse panel box is loose/not properly covered (S, A).
There are no shutoff valves/warning signs for the gas/oil main supply line(s) (S, A).
The gas/oil supply tank is significantly rusted (S, A).
There is evidence of spills/odors/gauge problems with the exterior fuel/oil supply system (S, A).
The oil tank‑to‑burner supply pipe is not underground (S, A).
The well on this property appears to be used for drinking water. Check with the proper water authorities to verify that this well has been tested and is approved for drinking water (S, A).
Well used for drinking water is located less than 100 feet from/downhill from the likely location of a septic drain field (S,A).
Supply pipe from well head to house not adequately underground/insulated (M, A).
Septic Tank/Private Sewer: Odors/ Dark hue to grass or snow melted off only at likely drain field pipe locations (S, A).
Basement stairs rail missing (S, A).
No areaway drain at base of stairs to basement (M, A).
Drain at base of exterior stairs appears plugged (M, A).
Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at basement stairs (S, A).
Wood at soil at rear porch/stoops/stairs (M, A).
Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at rear porch/stoop/stairs (S, A)
Settlement of rear porch away from house with trip hazard (S, A).
Support posts for roof over rear porch possibly pulling roof down with settlement (M, A).
Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose–rear porch/stoops/stairs (S, A).
Weathered railing/deck boards on rear porch (S, A)
Spacing between balusters on rear porch rail too wide (S, A)
Glass patio door glass broken/cracked/loose/unmarked as tempered (S, A).
Wood at soil at patio, deck, balcony, side porch (M, A).
Deck/Balcony not bolted/screwed to wall under floor level (S, A).
Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at balcony/deck/patio/side porch (S, A).
Support posts for roof over balcony/deck/patio/side porch possibly pulling roof down with settlement (M, A).
Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose–balcony/deck/patio/side porch (S, A).
Spacing between balusters on balcony/deck/patio/garage rail too wide (S, A).
Missing/weathered railing/deck boards at balcony/deck/patio/garage (S, A).
Concrete surface broken on driveway (M, A).
Trip hazard on driveway due to settling and/or buckling (S, A).
Poor drainage on driveway or other parking surface (M, A).
Driveway asphalt needs resealing (M, B).
Driveway asphalt needs patching (M, A)
Driveway slopes toward garage without opportunity for drainage (M, A).
The dirt/gravel driveway has major ruts (S, A).
Wood embedded at the soil at driveway. Represents a potential attraction for termites and other word destroying insects(M,A).
Weep holes do not exist in retaining walls (M, A).
Retaining wall shows signs of being slightly out of plumb (watch/check periodically for additional settlement after take preventative action -‑e.g., drill weep holes, eliminate uphill pressure etc) (S, A).
Retaining wall shows signs of being moderately/severely out of plumb. Consider measures to correct/replace the retaining wall.
No rail above retaining wall (S, A)
Untreated wood at soil at retaining wall (M, B).
No “dead man” anchors railroad tie retaining wall to help keep the wall from tipping downhill (M, A).
Masonry deteriorating at retaining wall (M or S, A or B).
Concrete deteriorating at retaining wall (S or M, A or B).
Some retaining walls not evaluable due to vines or scrubs at lot line/other retaining wall.
Minor damage to fence (P, C).
Moderate damage to fence (M, B).
Significant damage to fence (M, B).
Gates/hardware of fence not functioning properly (M, B).
Erosion has weakened some fence supports (M, B).
Chain link/wrought iron fence posts rusted/damaged/not embedded in concrete (M, B).
No drainage ditch or catch basin above building on uphill grade to divert water around house (M, A).
No drainage ditch or catch basin above building on uphill grade of adjacent property to divert water around house (M, A).
Stream nearby which could potentially create a risk of water infiltration into the lower levels of the house (M, A).
Significant erosion apparent in lot grading (M, A).
Sump pump apparently exists on property. This could suggest a water table problem or drainage problem on the property (M,A).
Soggy spots or ponding on lawn could indicate a drainage, water table, or water supply leak (e.g. sprinkler leak, etc.) on the property (M, A).
Poor landscaping (e.g. entire lawn burned, etc.) exists on the property (M, B).
The yard is not fully graded (e.g. unfinished portions, etc.) (M, A).
Severe corrosion/rust apparent on drip edge (e.g. portions of drip edge rusted through, etc.) (M, B).
Inspector did not mount roof because too cold/snow/ice/rain/too steep/too high/other
Recommend heat tape where ice damming may occur (M, A).
Some heat tape on the roof overlaps with itself (S, A).
At least 3 layers of shingles exist on roof currently. This may mean that you might have to remove at least one of the layers of shingles before applying a new layer (cost=approximately an additional 50% of new shingles if done at time of new shingle application) (M, A). This cost does not include any costs related to new or replacement sheathing, if necessary, to go beneath the new shingles for support (cost=approximately an additional 50% of new shingles if done at time of new shingle application M,A)
Ridge of roof sags (S, A).
Decking of roof (different planes of roof that shingles rest on) is sagging (S, A).
Trees scraping roof with risk of damage significant enough to reduce life of roof (M, A).
South face of roof damaged (M, A)
Minor portions of roof need reroofing (S, A).
Moderate portions of roof need reroofing. (S, A).
Large portions of roof need reroofing. Consider replacing entire roof since replacing only the parts of the roof that need replacement may be about the same costs as complete replacement (S, A).
Moderate/major roof damage in distinct sections on the roof. This means that portions of the roof may be replaceable without replacing the entire roof so long as there is enough estimated remaining useful life on the remainder of the roof to make this partial replacement worthwhile (M, A).
Moderate/major roof damage in random sections on the roof. This means that it would probably not be cost-effective to partially replace the portions of the roof that are damaged as such a process may be almost as costly as replacing the entire roof. It is probably better to replace the entire roof to make reroofing a more cost-effective decision (M, A).
Damage below cooler (M, A).
Possible sheathing damage to roof (e.g. apparent pits in roof material that may indicate damaged sheathing below, etc.) (M,A).
Flashings to the roof are not properly set (e.g., the penetrations through the roof were not set properly when it was reroofed, etc) (M, A).
Estimated remaining useful life of house roof with repairs recommended, if any: 0‑5 5‑10 10‑15 15‑20 20+ years
Elastomer roof material has tears in it (M, A).
Rigid tiles slipping from course line (S, A).
Rigid tiles cracked or missing (S, A).
Rigid roof with less than 3/12 pitch–have roofer check (S, A).
Some shingles are curling. This limits the life of the shingles significantly (see estimated remaining useful life of roof) (M,A).
Shingles are cracked. This usually means the shingles are past approximately the midpoint of their useful life (usually a watch situation) (M, A).
Some shingles are missing/torn (M, A).
Some shingles missing some granules. This may indicate that the shingles are approaching the end of their estimated remaining useful life (M, A).
Shingle roof with less than 3/12 pitch–have roofer check (M, A).
Metal valleys on wood roofs are likely to wear before the wood roof material does (M, A).
Holes exist in the valleys of the wood roof (M, A).
Recommend oil and graphite coating on wood shingles/shakes (M, A).
Some wood shakes/shingles have “burn” in some places-‑recommend replacement of those occasional shingles (M, A).
Occasional rot found on wood roof (M, A).
Wood shakes/shingles show signs of minor curling-‑could be due to a recent rain or represent permanent curling (M, A).
Some wood shakes/shingles splitting/missing (M, A).
Some felt exposed on wood shake roof (M, A).
Many wood shingles or shakes show significant wear. e.g., greater than 50%, and are near the end of their life expectancy (M,A).
Wood roof with less than 4/12 pitch–have roofer check (M, A).
Exposed felt on tar roof (S, A).
Some cracking evident on some areas of tar (S, A).
Bubbling/blisters evident on tar roof (S, A).
Some areas of tar roof without rocks/reflectors (M, A).
Curling/pulling away of tar roof at edges (S, A).
Ponding/poor drainage evident/likely. Correct at next reroofing. (M, A)
The pitch of this built up roof may allow for asphalt shingles. Evaluate for this possibility before reroofing.
Rolled roofing more likely to leak than rest of roof and generally will have a useful life of about only 5‑10 years.
Rolled roofing deteriorated (M, A).
Rolled roofing wrinkled. This could significantly reduce the estimated remaining useful life of the roof material (M, A).
Rolled roofing cracking. This usually means the material is past approximately the midpoint of its useful life (usually a watch situation) (M, A).
Rolled roofing installed on a roof with less than an appropriate pitch. The pitch of the roof is not a proper application by manufacturer’s instructions and its serviceability is indeterminable (M, A).
Two sloped roofs meet without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).
Sloped/flat roof without good drainage— poor roof design (S, A).
Flat part worn more than sloped–replace flat (S, A).
Sloped/wall roof without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).
Substantial debris in gutters (M, C).
Previous repair/replacement of roof partial. This means some parts of the roof may need replacement before other sections (M,A)
Corroded metal roof materials on roof. This could indicate that the roof material is approaching the end of its useful life (M,A).
Chimney masonry deteriorating (M, A).
Chimney cap damaged (M, A).
Concrete capped tile flue deteriorating (M, B).
No screen covers on chimney (S, A)‑‑should be at least 1/4″ mesh‑do not use window screen.
Recommend “crickets” installed above chimney–next reroofing
Chimney or skylight flashing not stepped into mortar or caulked on pitched sides of chimney (M, A).
A TV antennae or other device is connected to chimney and has damaged it (M, A).
The chimney is not at least about 20 ft above floor level of the fireplace it services and there is evidence that backdrafting is occurring above the fireplace inside (S, A).
The top of the chimney is not at least 3 ft above the level of the flat roof around it or it is not at least 10 ft on the horizontal away from a pitched roof (S, A).
Dormer flashings/seals appear to be inadequate/worn/corroded (M, A).
Roof parapet wall coping is not sloped toward the roof (M, A).
Flashing at combustion/sewer vents inadequate-‑e.g., cracked/no flash at top of conical flashing, etc.(M, A).
Flashing at combustion/sewer vents deteriorated (M, A).
No screened covers over combustion air vents (S, A)‑‑should be at least 1/4″ mesh-‑do not use window screen.
Combustion vents below top of evaporative cooler (S, A).
No drain line to carry evaporative cooler overflow water off of roof or unit is leaking. This has resulted/could result in significant damage to the roof below the evaporative cooler (M, A).
No drain line to carry evaporative cooler overflow water off roof. This could result in significant damage to the roof below the evaporative cooler although we are unable to evaluate possible damage due to snow on roof (M, A).
Evaporative cooler unit is not step flashed on sides. At least add step flashing at next re‑roofing (M, A).
Evaporative cooler winterized and so not evaluable.
Housing covers on the evaporative cooler are not all properly placed (S, A).
Evaporative cooler does not appear to be firmly attached (S, A).
The evaporative cooler overflow drains to the sewer (S, A).
Some of the asphalt/plastic/parapet wall flashing/counterflashing/valleys sewer vents/flue vents are inadequate/corroded/cracked (M, A).
Inadequate diagonal wall supports in garage (S, A).
Inadequate diagonal with garage walls out of plumb (S, A).
Garage roof has inadequate cross members (S, A).
There is noticeable settlement at garage foundation. Recommend structural engineer or contractor for further evaluate (S, A).
Inspector did not mount garage roof because too cold/snow/ice/rain/too steep/too high/other
135 Apparently garage roof has 3 or more layers of roofing. At added cost you may have to remove a layer before adding one (S, A).
Ridge/Deck of garage roof sags (S, A).
Trees scraping garage roof with risk of damage significant enough to reduce life of roof (M, A).
South face of garage roof covering damaged (S, A).
Minor portions of garage roof need reroofing (S, A).
Moderate portions of garage roof need reroofing (S, A).
Large portions of garage roof need reroofing. Consider replacing entire roof since replacing only the parts of the roof that need replacement may be about the same costs as complete replacement (S, A).
Possible sheathing damage to garage roof (e.g. apparent pits in roof material may indicate damaged sheathing below, etc.) (M, A).
Flashings to the garage roof are not properly set (e.g. the penetrations through the roof were not set properly when it was reroofed, etc.) (M, A).
Estimated remaining useful life of garage roof: 0‑5 5‑10 10‑15 15‑20 20+ years
Elastomer garage roof material has tears in it (M, A).
Rigid tiles on garage roof slipping from course line (S, A).
Rigid tiles on garage roof cracked or missing (S, A).
Some shingles are curling on garage roof. This limits the life of shingles significantly (see est remaining useful life of roof) (M,A).
Shingles are cracked on garage roof. This usually means the shingles are past approximately the midpoint of their useful life
(usually a watch situation ) (M, A).
Some garage roof shingles are missing (M, A).
Some garage shingles are torn (M, A).
Some shingles on garage roof missing some granules. This may indicate that the shingles are approaching the end of their estimated remaining useful life (M, A).
Garage asphalt roof with less than 3/12 pitch–have roofer check (S, A).
Metal valleys on garage wood roof is likely to wear before the wood roof material does (M, A).
Recommend oil and graphite coating on wood shingles/shakes of garage (M, A).
Some wood shakes/shingles have “burn” in some places on garage roof-‑recommend replacement of those shingles (M, A).
Wood shakes/shingles of garage roof show signs of minor curling. Could be due to a recent rain or permanent curling (M,A).
Some wood shakes/shingles splitting on garage roof (M, A).
Some wood shakes/shingles missing on garage roof (M, A).
Exposed felt on garage wood roof (S, A)
Most wood shingles/shakes on garage roof are 50% or more deteriorated (S, A).
Garage wood roof with less than 4/12 pitch–have roofer check (S, A).
Exposed felt on garage tar roof (S, A)
Some cracking evident on some areas of garage tar roof (S, A)
Bubbling/blisters evident on garage tar roof (S, A).
Some areas of garage tar roof without rocks/reflectors (M, A)
Curing/pulling away of garage tar roof at edges (S, A)
Garage tar roof ponding evident/likely. Correct at next reroofing (S, A).
The pitch of this built up garage roof may allow for asphalt shingles. Evaluate for this possibility before reroofing.
Rolled roofing more likely to leak than rest of garage roof (M, A).
Rolled roofing on garage deteriorated (M, A).
Rolled roofing on garage wrinkled. This could significantly reduce the estimated remaining useful life of the roof material (M,A).
Rolled roofing of garage cracking. This usually means the material is past approximately the midpoint of its useful life (usually a watch situation) (M, A).
Rolled roofing torn on garage roof. This should be repaired since it is a clear break in the roofing material (M, A).
Rolled roofing installed on a garage roof with less than a 2 in 12 pitch. The pitch of the roof is not a proper application by manufacturer’s instructions and its serviceability is indeterminable (S, A).
Two sloped garage roofs without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).
Sloped/flat garage roof without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).
Flat part worn more than sloped–replace flat (S, A).
Sloped/wall garage roof without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).
Wood touching soil at garage foundation, exterior wall or covering (M, A).
Exterior garage wall brick mortar deteriorating (M, A).
Exterior garage wall siding has no vent holes/is damaged (M, A).
Minor cracks in garage foundation walls-‑probably represent primarily a cosmetic concern-‑cover with parging or patch (M,A).
Medium sized crack(s) in garage foundation or exterior wall. Could consider consulting with structural contractor or engineer to further evaluate (S, A).
Major garage foundation or wall cracks/settlement/bulging/out of plumb. Should consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice (S, A).
Cracks in the outside garage wall are vertical/horizontal/diagonal (see notes above).
Vines reduce the opportunity to inspect/has or may result in damage to garage sidewalls, etc. of the house (M, A).
Deteriorating stucco (M, A).
Possible asbestos siding on garage–contact industrial hygienist (S, A).
Parging deteriorating/missing on garage foundation wall (P, C)
Evidence of possible previous fire on the exterior of the garage (M, A).
There is apparently some span sag over garage windows/doors/openings in the exterior wall of this home (M, A).
Broken window at garage (S, A).
Trip hazard on garage floor (S, A).
The floor level is not lower than the house floor level on your attached garage (S, A).
The garage support posts are damaged/not embedded in concrete (non‑wood)/not supported by footing (wood) (S, A).
Fire wall between house and garage not continuous on garage side (e.g. missing drywall, dryer vent in wall, plastic central vacuum line in wall, etc. (M, A).
Garage walls out of plumb.
Rear wall of garage bowed out (S, A).
Rear wall of garage damaged (P, B).
Evidence of leaks in ceiling of garage (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no cover over outlet box at garage (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no cover over switch box at garage (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no cover over junction box where wires meet at garage (S, A).
Wire connections exposed without junction box installation at garage (S, A).
Wire connections exposed without conduit protection at garage (S, A).
Evidence of leaks in ceiling of garage (S, A).
Lamp cord used in lieu of “hard wire” at garage (S, A).
Electrical boxes in garage not adequately anchored (S, A).
Some outlets inoperable/loose/inadequate/broken at garage (S, A).
Wires taped at junctions at garage (S, A).
Ungrounded three prong outlets at garage-‑change to two prong outlet or establish ground to outlet (S, A).
Reversed electrical polarity in outlet(s) at garage (S, A).
Switch possibly defective at garage (S, A).
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlet in garage not properly operating (S, A).
Wires to garage may not be exterior grade (S, A).
Garage vehicle door damaged (S, A).
Garage vehicle door sticking (S, A).
Garage vehicle door spring apparently damaged (S, A).
Wires to garage hanging too low to ground (S, A).
Garage door opener not automatic reversing (S, A).
Garage door opener automatic reversing needs adjustment (S, A).
Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at garage (S, A)
Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose at garage (S, A).
Spacing between garage stair balusters on rail too wide (S, A).
No metal/fire rated/solid core common door between house and garage (S, A).
Door between house and garage is not auto closing/does not apparently have a very good weatherstrip (S, A).
Side door to garage has been damaged/fits the opening poorly (M, C).
There is a possible freeze to spigots or hose bibs that exist in the garage in a cold weather area (M, A).
There is no insulation on pipes in unheated garage/in the exterior wall(s) of the garage in cold weather area (M, A).
The garage has a coal/wood stove in it. This is an extreme fire hazard. Remove from the garage area immediately (S, A).
The garage has a vent/heater/water heater that is less than 18″ off ground (S, A).
Some appliances/tanks are unprotected from potential damage from a car (S, A).
The garage has a return air/undampered vent in it (S, A).
Attic was not traversed due to risk of injury to inspector and damage to house.
Storage prevents access to better inspect attic.
No accessible attic space
Could add more insulation to attic space. This would be one of the most cost‑effective “repairs” that could be done on this home (P, A). However, if the home is of a rafter type, it is likely that some additional support may be required for your roof deck. Additional insulation may allow larger amounts of snow to build up on the roof.
Uneven distribution of insulation in attic (M, A).
Possible asbestos insulation in attic space (S, A).
No insulation around skylight on attic side (M, A).
Exposed foam board insulation in attic space (S, A).
Ventilation openings in the attic are unscreened (M, A).
Evidence of adverse conditions due to poor ventilation (e.g. frost, condensation etc) (M, A).
Evidence of roof and rafters bowing. Recommend contacting structural contractor to provide additional bracing or repairs (S, A).
The roof deck supports are not properly braced on a load bearing support (e.g. the center load bearing wall in the house) (S,A).
Rafters in attic show signs of splitting/cracking (S, A)
The lower ends of the roof rafters at the eaves are significantly raised above the ceiling joists level in the attic space, and, thus, are not tied into the joist ends. In this house this is resulting in a ballooning in some of the walls below the attic space (S, A).
Light visible at some penetrations through roof (M, A)
Evidence of leaks at evaporative cooler penetration in roof at attic (M, A).
Evidence of leaks at flue penetration in roof at attic (M, A).
Evidence of leaks at chimney penetration in roof at attic (M, A).
Evidence of leaks at sewer vent penetrations in roof at attic (M, A).
Evidence of leaks at deck at attic (M, A).
Leak evident at sloped/sloped roof juncture–attic side (M, A).
Leaks evident at sloped/flat juncture–attic side (M, A).
Evidence of leaks at roof/wall juncture from attic side (M, A).
Evidence of leaks around eaves from attic side (M, A).
Evidence of leaks on underside of roof‑possibly due to previous or current roof covering (S, A).
Flue too close to combustibles (S, A).
Openings or non‑masonry covers over openings to chimney flue on attic side of chimney (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no cover over outlet/switch/junction box where wires meet at attic (S, A).
Wire connections exposed without junction box installation at attic (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no conduit in attic space where the wires may be exposed to traffic, etc. (e.g. over floor boards, etc.) (S, A).
Lamp cord used in lieu of “hard wire” in attic (S, A).
Unachored electrical boxes (S, A).
Inoperable/loose/inadequate/broken outlets in attic (S, A).
Wires taped at junctions at attic (S, A).
Ungrounded 3 prong attic outlets–use 2 prong or ground (S, A).
Reversed electrical polarity at attic outlets (S, A).
Switch possibly defective in attic (S, A).
Exterior GFCI outlet not operating properly in attic (M, A).
Some recessed lights apparently in contact with insulation at attic. Check to be sure that the manufacturer’s installation instructions allow for the fixture to be in contact with insulation or move insulation away from the fixture (S, A).
Sewer/flue vent pipes terminate in attic (S, A).
Some flooring in the attic is sagging/damaged (S, A).
Some windows cracked/broken in attic (M, B).
Attic door(s) are not properly weatherstripped/allow infiltration of cold air (M, B).
Air conditioning unit in the attic has no drain line/backup drain line for the condensate drain pan (S, A).
Air conditioning unit drain pan drain line/backup drain line in the attic has an inadequate slope/is not “P” trapped (S, A).
Leakage of condensate/rust is apparent at or around the condensate drain system in the attic (S, A).
Air conditioning refrigerant lines in the attic are not adequately insulated (M, B).
All exterior doors do not have operable deadbolts or standard locks (S, A).
Sliding glass door difficult to open/lock inoperable (S, A)
All exterior doors are not solid core (S, A).
Operable smoke detectors do not exist in the appropriate places on appropriate floors-‑levels 1 2 3 4 5 (levels circled without operating detector) (S, A).
No battery in smoke detectors (S, A).
Trip hazard at stairs: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting between: level 1 and 2
level 2 to 3 level 3 to 4 level 4 to 5 (applicable levels circled) (S, A).
Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose— interior stairs: level 1 to 2 level 2 to 3
level 3 to 4 level 4 to 5 (applicable levels circled) (S, A).
Stairwell related problem may exist: Poorly lit/no 3 way switch between: level 1 and 2 level 2 to 3 level 3 to 4
level 4 to 5 (applicable levels circled) (S, A).
Balusters spaced too wide between stairs level: 1 to 2 level 2 to 3 Level 3 to 4 Level 4 to 5 (S, A).
Stairwell has poor headroom/width (S, A).
Evaporative cooler appears winterized and so was not checked (M, B).
Evaporative cooler sounds rough/not blowing air (M, B).
Evaporative cooler water pump may not be working (M, B).
Leaks evident in ceiling-evaporative cooler register. (M, A).
Some central vacuum ports do not appear to be operable (P, C).
No doorbell (P, B).
Doorbell not ringing (M, B).
Doorbell button broken (M, C).
No unfinished basement areas.
Crawlspace not completely accessible and so not fully evaluable.
Basement ceiling height inadequate. If apartment, anonymously check with municipality on requirements (S, A).
Wood in crawlspace/basement touching soil. This attracts termites (M, A).
Significant storage in basement area severely limits basement evaluation.
Crawlspace/Basement girders or beams significantly sag (M, A).
Some windows in basement are broken (S, A ).
Masonry/mortar in basement/crawlspace foundation deteriorating (M, A).
Ventilation openings in the crawlspace are unscreened (M, A).
Minor cracks in foundation-‑probably represent primarily a cosmetic concern-‑patch (M, A).
Medium sized crack(s) in foundation or exterior wall. Could consider consulting with structural contractor or engineer to provide a letter of evaluation for your information and persons purchasing from you in the future (S, A).
Major foundation or wall cracks/settlement/bulging/out of plumb. Should consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice (S, A).
Cracks in the outside wall are vertical/horizontal/diagonal (see notes above) (S, A).
Footings to the foundation are apparently above the frost line in a cold weather area (M, A).
Footings to the foundation are not supported by soil below (e.g. erosion of soil below) (M, A).
Footing are separated from the foundation (M, A).
Minor effervescence evident in some areas of crawlspace/basement (see grading and downspout issues) (M, A).
Some other evidence of water entry at crawlspace/basement walls (see grading, downspout, and drainage issues) (M, A).
Stains at base of crawlspace/basement walls indicate water in basement (see grading and downspout issues) (M, A).
Stains on outside crawlspace/basement walls indicate water infiltration (see grading and downspout issues) (M, A).
Mildew apparent in crawlspace/basement area (M, A).
Peeling paint in crawlspace/basement (M, A).
Rusted appliance bases or wet soil in crawlspace/basement (M, A).
Appliances being mounted up off of the floor in crawlspace/basement (M, A).
Sedimentary deposits/water inflow in crawlspace/basement area indicates water and/or moisture problems (M, A).
Hearth forms not removed (M, A)
Mortar/brick deteriorated (M A).
Evidence of possible water entry, e.g., effervescence, etc. (M, A).
Possible asbestos wrap on furnace ductwork. In order to determine whether the material is actually asbestos, it must be tested by an appropriate lab. For more information contact an industrial hygienist (see Yellow Pages) (S, A).
No rim joist insulation in at least some areas of basement (P, A).
Exposed foam board insulation in crawlspace/basement (S, A).
Water pipes/furnace ductwork not adequately insulated in crawlspace (P, A).
Water heater not adequately insulated (M, B).
No di-electrical insulation between copper pipe and steel (S, A).
Bearing walls apparently above ceiling without girders, framed wall or other supports to adequately support the load bearing (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no cover over outlet/switch box in basement or crawlspace (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no cover over junction box where wires meet in basement or crawlspace (S, A).
Wire connections exposed without junction box installation in basement or crawlspace (S, A).
Wire connections exposed due to no conduit in basement/crawlspace where the wires may be exposed to traffic, etc. (e.g. over flooring, concrete walls, etc.) (S, A).
Lamp cord used in basement as “hard wire” (S, A).
Unanchored electrical box(es) in basement (1 per outlet) (S, A).
Inoperable/Loose/Inadequate/Broken outlets in basement/crawlspace (S, A).
Wires taped at junctions in basement/crawlspace (S, A).
Ungrounded three prong outlets in basement or crawlspace‑change to two prong outlet or establish ground to outlet ( S, A).
Reversed electrical polarity in outlet(s) in basement or crawlspace (S, A).
Switch possibly defective in basement/crawlspace (S, A).
Trusses/joists cracking/significantly bowing in basement/crawlspace (S, A).
Evidence of previous fire in basement/crawlspace area (S, A).
Trusses Some staining or water damage in some exposed flooring above looking from crawlspace side below a plumbing fixture (M, A).
Some staining or water damage in some exposed flooring above looking from basement side below a plumbing fixture (M,A).
No vapor barrier over earthen crawlspace floor or underside of floor upstairs. Consider laying a tar paper or visqueen layer over earth to avoid high humidity or moisture to crawlspace components, etc (M, C).
Basement/crawl girders/beams cracked/significantly sagging (M, A)
Wood supports in crawlspace/basement touching soil. This is an attraction for wood destroying insects (M, A).
Support posts in basement significantly settling/deteriorated (M, A).
Significant soil erosion under/near support posts in crawl (M, A).
Basement/crawl masonry supports/mortar deteriorating (M, A).
Hearth forms not removed. This represents an unnecessary risk of attracting termites and other wood destroying organisms (M,A).
Cracks in apparently non-load bearing walls in basement/crawlspace (M, B).
Significant basement floor damage(e.g. trip hazard, etc.) (M, A).
No drain cover on floor drain (M, A).
Basement/crawl level drainage plumbing serviced by a septic/sump pump.
Sump pump may not be operating properly/without check valve/may freeze (M, A).
Sump pump is not exposed and so cannot be evaluated.
Sump pump does not discharge more than 6 feet outside of house (M, A).
Concrete slab is settling/heaving up/significantly cracked (S, A)
Concrete slab shows evidence of water seepage/infiltration/effervescence. This could indicate a water table problem (S, A)
Water heater leaking (M, A)
Combustion air backflow on water heater flue (S, A).
Hot water heater inadequately provided with combustion air (S, A).
No supply valve on water heater (M, A).
No supply valve handle on water heater (M, A).
No relief valve on water heater (S, A).
No adequate drain line on temperature and pressure relief valve of water heater (S, A).
No emergency shutoff gas valve exists on water heater (S, A).
Emergency shutoff gas valve on water heater broken (S, A).
Some leaks evident in fuel supply piping around water heater (M, A).
Some fuel supply leaks evident at manufacturer’s valve at water heater (M, A).
Some leaks evident in fuel supply pipe union around water heater (M, A).
Water heater flue near combustibles (S, A).
No flue cleanout on water heater (S, A)
Medium efficiency central heating connected to the same flue as the water heater. This generally may not comply with manufacturer’s installation instructions. Have fuel company or contractor evaluate for manufacturer’s compliance (S, A).
Water heater flue not intact (S, A).
Two flexible brass connectors connected in series on the water heater fuel supply line (S, A)
Evaporative cooler may not have been disconnected fully from water supply for winter–supply line may leak (M, A).
Cooler water supply line is disconnected–cannot evaluate cooler (M, A).
Could not get water heater to operate (S, A).
Water heater unit not properly supported. (S, A).
Inadequate grout around flue at water heater flue/chimney juncture potentially creating a poor drafting situation (S, A).
Some leaks evident in water supply piping at water heater (M, A).
There is some evidence that the water pressure provided to the home is at least at some times too high for the water heaters
(S, A). Consider adding a pressure reducer at an appropriate location on the supply line.
No drip tray under non-ground floor level water heater (M, A).
You apparently have a solar hot water heating system that is used only in summer. There are apparently no conversion valves for switching to winter. (S, A)
There was limited access to the water heater unit and this limited the opportunity to inspect/operate the water heater (S, A).
The oil tank was not visible/not appropriately vented to the outside/rusted/leaking (S, A).
No oil filter in the supply line before fuel enters water heater oil burner (S, A).
Unprotected fuel supply line for the oil fired water heater (e.g. no protective tube and/or not underground) (S, A).
No fire-o-matic safety valves exist at fuel tank/burner/water heating unit (S, A).
No fire-resistant ceiling over the hot water heater (S, A).
Gauge/pipe/fuel line problems/leaks on oil fired hot water heater (S, A).
No barometric draft damper on oil fired hot water heater (S, A).
Soot buildup in unit or flue pipe on oil fired hot water heater (S, A).
Oil fired flame distorted in the firing chamber of the hot water heater (S, A).
Combustion air backflow on heating/central heating flue (S, A).
The burner compartment covers are rusted/inadequate on the heating unit (S, A).
Inadequate combustion air provided for heating unit (S, A).
Possible asbestos wrap on heating unit ductwork/piping. In order to determine whether the material is actually asbestos, it must be tested by an appropriate lab. For more information contact an industrial hygienist (see Yellow Pages) (S, A).
Possible cracked heat exchanger‑-match flame disturbed or blown out when at mixer or burner flame disturbed when fan turns on-‑have fuel company or contractor verify evidence of cracked heat exchanger (S, A).
Recommend you have the fuel company or contractor be asked to check furnace for cracked heat exchanger-‑older than 20 yrs.
There is a compromise in the return air ductwork, etc. for the furnace. Please have a heating specialist further evaluate and repair, if necessary, before moving in.
Some leaks evident in fuel supply piping/manufacturer’s fuel valve around heating system (M, A).
Gas service shut off–unable to fully evaluate gas appliances.
No emergency shutoff gas valve exists on heating unit (S, A).
Emergency shutoff gas valve on heating unit broken (S, A).
The heating unit apparently could not be turned on. Have the unit evaluated by a qualified technician after it has been made operable (S, A).
Medium efficiency furnace does not have a double walled flue as is recommended (S, A).
Flue close to combustibles (S, A).
No flue cleanout on heating unit (S, A).
Inadequate grout around flue at heating unit flue/chimney juncture potentially creating a poor drafting situation (S, A).
Heating system flue not intact (S, A).
The flue dampers on the heating unit are apparently not operating properly (S, A).
There was limited access to the heating unit and this limited the opportunity to inspect/operate the heating unit (S, A).
Some heating system burners appear plugged (S, A).
Heating unit not properly supported. (S, A).
The heating unit appears significantly rusted to potentially effect its estimated remaining useful life (M, A).
An oil tank apparently exists on the property. Have a qualified service company further evaluate the condition and operation of the fuel supply system (S, A).
The pressure on the steam/hot water boiler is too high (S, A).
Pressure gauge on steam/hot water boiler not operating properly (S, A).
Evidence of leaks at steam/hot water boiler/boiler pipes (S, A).
No pressure relief valve/inadequate relief valve drain line on steam/hot water boiler (S, A).
No tempering valve/mixer on the boiler based tankless coil domestic hot water heating system (S, A).
Steam radiators exist below the top of the steam boiler (S, A).
No low water cutoff/alarm on the steam boiler (S, A).
The apparent operating temperature of the steam boiler is higher than is typically recommended (S, A)
The glass gauge on the steam boiler is filled/not operating properly (S, A).
Radiators exist below the level of the hot water boiler and there is no pump to circulate the water (S,A).
No tempering valve/mixer on the hot water boiler based tankless coil domestic hot water heating system (S, A).
The apparent operating temperature of the hot water boiler is higher than is typically recommended (S, A)
Apparently no/an inadequately operating expansion tank exists on the hot water boiler system (S, A).
Apparently the hot water boiler circulating pump is not properly operating (S, A).
The oil tank was not visible/not appropriately vented to the outside/rusted/leaking (S, A).
No oil filter in the supply line before fuel enters heating unit oil burner (S, A).
Unprotected fuel supply line for the oil fired heating unit (e.g. no protective tube and/or not underground) (S, A).
No fire-o-matic safety valves exist at fuel tank/burner/heating unit (S, A).
No fire-resistant ceiling over the heating unit (S, A).
Gauge/pipe/fuel line problems/leaks on oil fired heating unit (S, A).
No barometric draft damper on oil fired heating unit (S, A).
Soot buildup in unit or flue pipe on oil fired heating unit (S, A).
Oil fired flame distorted in the firing chamber of heating unit (S, A).
Filter missing (S, A).
Filter(s) not properly placed on furnace(s) (M, A).
Filter not properly sized for furnace (S, A).
Air conditioning unit appears to have rusted parts of heat exchanger on heating unit‑have fuel company or contractor check for cracked heat exchanger (S, A).
Fan on heating unit is noisy (M, A).
Fan “V” belt loose/worn/shredded on heating unit (S, A).
Air conditioning unit not operating properly (M, C).
Apparently inadequate drainage on air conditioning unit condensate drainage system (S, A).
Inadequate drain line/pump for evaporator condensation (S, A).
Outdoor temperature too cool to allow for evaluation of central air conditioning.
Air conditioning oil heating elements not on for at least 24 hours prior to inspection and so air conditioning not evaluated
Air conditioner doesn’t blow cool air (M, A). This could involve requiring replacement of the entire air conditioning unit.
Temperature difference____________.
The air conditioner unit unusually noisy (M, A).
There is an apparent cross connection between the well water and municipally provided water supplies (S, A).
A lead service water supply line may exist in this house. Have this issue further evaluated by a qualified plumber (S, A).
Galvanized water supply piping has or will narrow internally due to rust, thus reducing flow and pressure. Recommend using water saver shower heads to reduce this effect at an important point (M, A).
Soldered copper water supply piping may allow lead to leach into water supply. Check with Poison Control to see whether such a condition is believed to represent a problem in your area (S, A).
Check with municipality about copper crimped plastic pipe (S, A).
Recommend pressure reducer before water heater line (M, B)
Some supply piping has some leaks in it (M, A).
Some supply piping corroded (M, A).
Special connections do not exist at point in the house plumbing to separate copper and steel supply piping (S, A).
Some exterior hose bibs are at risk of freezing in the winter. We are unable to identify any method for turning these hose bibs off to better avoid this risk in the winter (S, A).
Some copper piping in the house is hung with incompatible metal supports (S, A).
There is evidence that water hammer exists in the plumbing on this property. Contact a qualified plumber to have this issue further evaluated (M, A).
Improperly pitched/broken/loosely connected drainage pipe (S, A).
Some rust or corrosion evident on drainage piping (M, A).
Some stains/wet spots from possible leaks evident in drainage piping or surrounding material (e.g. wood) (M, A).
Drains or drainage vent pipes do not appear to be protected from possible freeze (S, A).
Septic holding tank uncovered/leaking/overflowing (S, A).
Septic holding tank pump problems (S, A).
Water conditioning system leaks (M, A).
No P trap on clothes washer drain (S, A).
”S” type trap exists on clothes washer drain (S, A).
Unvented dryer (S, A).
No electric dryer outlet (P, B).
Evidence of leaks in laundry (S, A)
No “leak” tray under non-ground level clothes washer (M, B).
Unanchored dryer outlet (S, A).
Dryer wire not conduited (S, A).
Building has fuses now or probably had fuses in the past, judging by its age, and is a risk that at some time the wiring was overloaded by using oversized fuses (e.g., placing a 30 amp fuse in a slot designed for only a 15 amp fuse). However evidence/no evidence was found of any resulting damage to insulation of wires inspected‑the most important concern in wiring that has been “overamped” (S, A).
Home has had panel box upgraded significantly from what is typical for this age home. Care should be taken to be sure circuits utilizing any old wiring in the home‑-probably 14 gauge-‑is connected to 15 amp breakers (S, A).
White wires are connected to non-GFCI breakers (S, A).
No main electrical switch which shuts off entire electrical service to building (S, A).
Wires entering through electrical panel box walls not protected by protective clamps (S, A).
There is some insulation damage to wires in the electrical panel box (S, A).
Unused breaker slot cover openings on panel cover (e.g., breaker removed without replacement cover at slot opening (S,A).
Some single strand aluminum wiring exists in the home. Obtain a Consumer Product Safety Commission pamphlet on this issue to be sure it will be properly corrected or call 1‑800‑522‑6752 to locate a qualified local electrician (S, A).
Some solid strand aluminum electrical wiring used. The Federal Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends that all aluminum wiring be corrected. A FCPSC pamphlet addressing this issue should be sought (S, A)..
The panel box does not have an adequate cover (S, A).
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter panel breaker failed (S, A).
Some breakers covered with tape. Ask the seller the possible reasons for this, have a qualified electrician evaluate further (S,A).
Some fuses burned or removed or breakers tripped (S, A).
Some fuses/breakers have amperage ratings above that for which the wiring was designed-‑this sometimes results in the loss of the insulation value for wires. In the case of fuses, recommend that special amperage selective inserts be used to prevent use of oversized fuses in future (some of these fuses are available with a reset switch that allows it to work as if it were a breaker). In the case of breakers, recommend that appropriate breakers be installed for the wire sizes (S, A).
Visible/No Visible evidence was found of insulation value loss in wires inspected.
There was some apparent evidence of arcs/burns inside the electrical panel box (S, A).
Lamp cord used in lieu of “hard wire” at panel box (S, A).
Overload unprotected connections (no fuses or breakers used) on wires connected at the service lugs inside the panel box (S, A).
The service wire amperage rating is lower than the amperage rating for the main disconnect (S, A).
A fuse “jumper” may exist in the panel box (e.g. a penny may exist under a fuse, a wire may be looping around fuse, etc.) (S,A).
Extensive evidence of water or rust exists inside of the panel box which may indicate a masthead/panel cover leak (S, A).
There is extensive dirt buildup inside the panel box (S, A).
Kitchen appliances circled are not fully operational: Range Oven Microwave Exhaust hood Refrigerator Food waste disposal Dishwasher Waste compactor Other (S, A)
Kitchen appliances circled are missing knobs/handles/grids/gaskets/shelves/trays/latches/doors/hinges/glass/other components: Range Oven Microwave Exhaust hood Refrigerator Food waste disposal Dishwasher Waste compactor Other (S, A).
Cabinets/shelving/curtains do not adequately clear above the kitchen range to help reduce fire risk (S, A).
Exhaust hood light does not work due to bulb out/broken switch/unknown factors (M, A).
Refrigerator is unplugged and so cannot be evaluated.
Inadequate ventilation to refrigerator coils (S, A).
Food waste disposal sounds rough and may need replacing (M, B).
Evidence of leaks at dishwasher (S, A).
Chipped/poorly anchored sink (P, C).
Kitchen sink drains slowly in or is plugged (M, A).
Water supply to house apparently not on. Contact seller to have turned on and carefully check for leaks at that time (S, A).
Fan noisy in kitchen (M, B).
Kitchen fan not fully operational (M, B).
Kitchen has a window to vent but the window apparently cannot be opened (M, B).
Corrosion apparent on water supply pipes in kitchen (M, A).
No supply shutoff valves for kitchen sink supply lines (M, B).
Inadequate pressure in kitchen supply lines (M, A).
Kitchen faucets/sprayer/water pipes leak/broken (M, A).
Evidence of current leaks/deterioration around kitchen drainage plumbing (M, A).
Apparent “S” trap on kitchen drain system (M, A).
Tape wrapped on kitchen sink drain (M, B).
Improper slope to kitchen drain lines (M, A).
Exposed/unconduited wire inside kitchen cabinets, etc. (S, A).
Broken/missing hinges/hardware on kitchen cabinetry (M, C)
Countertop has burns/cracks/chips (M, B).
Countertop is curling/loose (M, B).
Adhesive failure on kitchen formica countertop (M, B).
Kitchen countertop needs grout or caulking (M, B).
Creosote buildup in wood stove/insert (S, A).
Inadequate hearth width on wood stove/insert-‑less than 18 inches (S, A).
Wood stove/insert does not follow listing clearances to combustibles-‑remove or remodel (S, A).
Wood stove/insert does not follow recommended clearances to combustibles-‑check with manufacturer and/or remove or remodel (S, A).
Fireplace has creosote buildup‑have fireplace cleaned‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).
Firebrick deteriorating in fireplace‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).
Firebrick mortar deteriorating in fireplace‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).
Damper hardware damaged‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).
Damper hardware missing‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).
Inadequate hearth width on fireplace insert-‑less than 18 inches-‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).
INSTRUCTIONS: Defective items found in the following rooms are listed as codes (e.g., A, 3V, etc.). See the code listings below the room listing to identify what defect the code represents.
Room Listing
Hall__________ Kitchen___________ Formal Dining Room____________ Parlor__________
Living Room__________ Den__________ Family Room___________ Office__________Rec Room__________ Workroom__________ Laundry room__________ Toy room__________
Bedrooms (location/level): Master____________ N S E W 1 2 3 4 5___________ N S E W 1 2 3 4 5___________
N S E W 1 2 3 4 5___________ N S E W 1 2 3 4 5___________ N S E W 1 2 3 4 5___________
Throughout house with few, if any, exceptions:____________________________________
Baths: Master bath__________________________ Main Full bath_______________________
Basement bath_____________________________ Half bath__________________________
Other baths (location/level): N S E W 1 2 3 4 5________________ N S E W 1 2 3 4 5___________________
Rooms
Heat
A Heat source apparently not adequately providing heat (M, A).
B Heat source not visible (S, A).
C Heat vents not covered (P, B).
D Heater not properly vented (S, A).
Electrical
E Wire connections exposed due to no cover over outlet box (S, A).
F Wire connections exposed due to no cover over switch box (S, A).
G Lamp cord used in lieu of “hard wire” (S, A).
H Outlet inoperable (S, A).
I Inadequate outlets available (S, A).
J Outlet broken (S, A).
K Wires taped at junctions (S, A).
L Ungrounded three prong outlets‑change to two prong outlet or establish ground to outlet (S, A).
M Reversed electrical polarity in outlet(s) (S, A).
N Switch possibly defective (S, A).
O Recommend Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Outlets replace three‑prong or convertible two prong outlets in “wet” areas -‑ kitchens, bathrooms, exterior and garage (S, A).
P Two prong electrical outlets exist in at least some rooms. If you are planning to use a computer or other appliances which require three prong plugs, you may find that you must modify or add to the wiring arrangement (S, A).
Walls
Q Minor cracks in walls (M, A).
R Evidence of leaks at wall (M, A).
S Wallpaper peeling (P, C).
T Damaged wall materials (P, B).
Windows
U Some windows cracked/broken (M, B).
V Some double pane windows have evidence of condensation (M, C).
W Numerous windows in building stick and are at least difficult to open (S ‑if sleeping room, A ‑if sleeping room)
X Some casement windows have damaged hardware (e.g., handles, guides, etc.) (S, A).
Y Some windows are not sized/positioned for egress (S, A).
AA Window air conditioning unit not operable (P, C).
BB Moisture around window effecting the wall-‑this could be caused by poor window seals or condensation (M, A).
Ceilings
CC Possible asbestos ceiling texture. In order to determine whether the ceiling texture is actually asbestos, it must be tested by an appropriate lab. For more information contact an industrial hygienist (see Yellow Pages) (S, A).
DD Possible, but very highly unlikely asbestos ceiling texture (S, A).
EE Minor cracks in ceiling (M, A).
FF Evidence of previous or current leaks on ceiling‑possibly due to bathroom or kitchen fixtures above (S, A).
GG Evidence of leaks on ceiling-‑possibly due to previous or current roof covering or flashing (needs further evaluation) (S, A).
HH Damaged ceiling materials (P, C).
Closets
II No closet in bedroom (P, B).
JJ Closet door(s) not fully operational (P, B).
KK Closet door(s) missing (P, B).
Other
Floors
LL Evidence of previous water exposure-‑mildew-‑to floor‑possibly from exterior (ask owner about possible previous infiltrations of water and see downspout, window well and grading issues. Could obtain additional evaluation by specialist) (S, A).
MM Flooring damaged (S, A).
NN Some flooring not attached to floor (P, C but may represent a trip hazard (S, A) if not smoothly laying on ground).
OO Floor sags or is not level (S, A).
Doors
PP Some doors damaged (P, C).
QQ Door knob damaged (P, C).
RR Door knob missing (P, C).
Bathrooms
Water
SS Chipped sink (P, C).
TT Sink drains slowly or is plugged (M, A).
UU Slow draining bathtub (M, A).
VV Shower head not operating appropriately (M, A).
WW Shower door not fully operational (M, B).
XX Shower valve not appropriately operating (M, A).
YY Toilet may need reanchoring (S, A).
ZZ Toilet flushing inadequately (M, A).
1 Some fixtures appeared to have poor pressure/flow. Recommend using water saver shower heads to reduce this effect at an important point and/or adjustment of in‑house or street pressure regulators (S, A).
2 Sink faucet system damaged (M, A).
3 Tub fixtures damaged (M, A).
4 Shower fixtures damaged (M, A).
5 Toilet running/valve system damaged (M, A).
Air
6 Fan noisy or not fully operational (M, B).
7 No ventilation in bathroom with shower (M, B).
8 Window not movable (M, B).
Tile
9 Tile above tub needs regrouting or caulking (M, A).
1M Damaged tub surround waterproof materials-‑e.g., tile waterproof board, plastic etc. (P, B).
2M Apparently water damaged wall next to tub (M, A).
3M Shower needs regrouting or caulking (M, A).
4M Shower pan leak (S, A).
5M Apparently water damaged wall next to shower (M, A).
6M At least some parts of shower walls are not waterproof (M, A).
7M Damaged shower waterproof materials-‑e.g., tile waterproof board, plastic etc. (P, B).
8M Countertop has burns (M, B).
9M Countertop has chips (M, B).
1Q Adhesive failure on formica countertop (M, B).
2Q Countertop needs grout or caulking (M, B).
Floor
3Q Apparently water damaged flooring next to shower (M, A).
4Q Mildew, moisture or rust below shower and/or tub at walls and floor (M, A).
Leaks
5Q Evidence of current leaks around some faucets/valves (M, A).
6Q Evidence of current leaks around some plumbing drain fixtures (M, A).
7Q Tape wrapped on sink drain (M, B).
8Q Improperly pitched drain pipe at sink (M, A).
Safety and Drawers
9Q Bathtub does not have a slip resistant floor to help prevent slip injuries (S ,A).
1R Bathtub does not have a safety handhold to help prevent slip injuries (S, A).
2R Shower does not have a slip resistant floor to help prevent slip injuries (S, A).
3R Shower does not have a safety handhold to help prevent slip injuries (S, A).
4R Some drawers damaged (M,B).
Other
5R Apparently water damaged flooring next to tub (M, A).
6R No knob locks on door (P, C).
Apparent Wall Type: Brick/Block/Frame/Brick Veneer/Earth/Earth sheltered/Log/Other /NV
Wall Covering: Brick Brick Veneer Wood clapboard Wood panels Stucco Metal
Insulated Metal Vinyl/plastic Wood shingles/shakes Asbestos Texture Other
Foundation: Concrete Block/brick Stone Other NV
Driveways/Walkways: Concrete/Asphalt/Dirt/Stone Other
Porches/Patios/Decks/Balconies: Columns: Metal/Wood/Indeterminable/NV
Roof: “A” Steep Medium Low Pitched Flat Gable Hip Shed Mansard Gambrel
Asphalt or Fiberglass Shingles Wood Shingles Wood Shakes Tar & Gravel Rolled
Metal Clay Vinyl Plastic Slate Asbestos Corrugate Other
Methods used: Binoculars On roof Ladder at eave Window Other
Gutters: Metal Wood Other
Electrical: Underground Overhead: Riser 110 Volts 220 Volts Fusses/Breakers Operated: Switches/Fixtures
Panel Box Loc.(s):Stairwell/Garage/Laundry/Bsmnt/Exterior/Hall/Closet/Furnace room/Other
N S E W level: 1 2 3 4 5 N S E W level: 1 2 3 4 5 Aluminum Branch Circuit Wiring Present
Service: Alum./Copper Main Disconnect Amps: 30 40 50 60 70 80 100 125 150 200 Other None
Main Disconnect Location: N S E W level: 1 2 3 4 5 Test: GFCI operation
Wiring Method: Romex/Cloth insulated/Armored Cable (bx)/Knob and Tube/other
Attic: Inspection method: At access port Access obstructed/partially obstructed No attic Walking in attic Entry would damage property (e.g. insulation would be disturbed)
Adverse/Dangerous situations suspected (e.g. no floor boards)
Ceiling structure: NV Trusses/Joists Roof Structure: NV Trusses/Rafters Sheathing/Batt boards
Insulation: NV Cellulose Fiberglass Rockwool Roll/batt Loose fill Other Approximate thickness
Vapor barrier: Not visible/None/Incorrectly placed
Water Heater Unit:Tank/Instantaneous (tankless) Potable hot water from heating system Size 40/50/60/other gal.
Fuel:Natural Gas/ Electricity/Propane/Wood/Coal/Kerosene/Solar/Oil with interior‑exterior tank/Other
Central Heating: Duct/distribution: Sheet metal/Sub‑Slab/Flexible/Pipe/Radiant ceiling plenum
Type: Forced air Hot Water: Gravity/Circulating pump Steam Heat pump (test if outside >30 & < 60 F) Up/down/horiz. draft Hi/Medium efficiency “Octopus” gravity/forced air
Fuel:Natural Gas/ Electricity/Propane/Wood/Coal/Kerosene/Solar/Oil with interior‑exterior tank/Other
Central Cooling: Electric/Gas/Oil Integral/Split Temp. < 60 F or unit not “warmed up” 24 hrs.
Type: Condenser/Chiller Not applicable before test (do not test)
Smoke Detectors: Absent
Crawlspace: Inspection method: No crawlspace/At port Access obstructed/partially obstructed
Crawling/Walking inside crawlspace Adverse/Dangerous situation suspected(waste, minor head/knee/hand injury)
Vapor barrier: On ground/Not visible/None/Incorrectly placed Venting: Yes No
Basement/Crawlspace Insulation: NV Cellulose Fiberglass Rockwool Roll/batt Loose fill Other
Floor/Ceiling structure: NV Trusses/Joists Underside Upstairs Floors: NV Batt Plywood Chipboard Concrete
Vapor Barrier: Not visible/None/Incorrectly placed
Girders/Beams: NV/Bearing wall/Wood/Built‑Up Joists/Solid Beam/Laminated Beam/Brick/Steel/Other
Piers/Support Posts: NV/Bearing wall/Wood/Masonry/Concrete/Other
Footings: NV/Masonry/Concrete/Other
Water supply: Galvanized/Copper/Plastics Other NV
Main Shut off Location: Water N S E W level: 1 2 3 4 5 Fuel N S E W level: 1 2 3 4 5
Water Drainage: Cast iron/Galvanized Steel/Plastic/Copper/Lead/Steel/Other /NV Operate: Sumps/NA
Fireplace/Solid Fuel Burning Types: Fireplace/Insert/Wood Stove
Chimneys: Masonry/Metal/Framed
Windows: Slide/Casement/Fixed/Double-single hung/ other
Garage House Door: Solid wood/Metal/ Other