Items We Check

This  is  a  brief  description  of  items  we  check.  In  many  homes  this  works  out  to  be  600  to  1000  items.  The  list  for  rooms,  bathrooms  gets  multiplied  by  the  number  of  rooms  being  inspected.  For  a  detailed  list  see below.  Every  home  is  unique  and  the  home  inspection  will  tailor  the  inspection  for  the  specific  home:

Brief List

  1. The flashing and trim.
  2. All exterior doors, decks, stoops, steps, stairs, porches, railings, eaves, soffits, fascias, grading, and walkways.
  3. And report as in need of repair any spacings between intermediate balusters, spindles, or rails for steps, stairways, balconies, and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than four inches in diameter.
  4. The vegetation, surface drainage and retaining walls when these are likely to adversely affect the building.
  5. And describe the exterior wall covering
    1. The  basement.
    2. The  foundation
    3. The  crawlspace.
    4. The  visible  structural  components.
    5. Any  present  conditions  or  indications  of  active  water  penetration  by  probing  a  representative  sampling  of  structural  components  where  deterioration  is  believed  to  be  present  or  where  clear  indications  of  deterioration  are  present.
    6. And  report  any  general  indications  of  foundation  movement  that  are  observed,  such  as  but  not  limited  to  sheetrock  cracks,  brick  cracks,  out-of-square  door  frames  or  floor  slopes.
  1. The heating system and describe the energy source and heating method using normal operating controls.
  2. And report as in need of repair electric furnaces which do not operate.
  3. And report if inspector deemed the furnace inaccessible.

Check accessible supply vents for operation

  1. The central cooling equipment using normal operating controls.

We will not operate AC equipment or systems if exterior temperature is below 65 degrees for at least 24hours. Fahrenheit or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment.

  1. Inspect the main water shut off valve.
  2. Inspect the water heating system.
  3. Flush toilets.
  4. Run water in sinks, tubs, and showers.
  5. Inspect the interior water supply including all fixtures and faucets.
  6. Inspect the drain, waste and vent systems, including all fixtures.
  7. Describe any visible fuel storage systems.
  8. Inspect the drainage sump pumps testing sumps with accessible floats.
  9. Inspect and describe the water supply, drain, waste and main fuel shut-off valves, as well as the location of the water main and main fuel shut-off valves.
  10. Inspect and determine if the water supply is public or private.
  11. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously.
  12. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in installation and identification of hot and cold faucets.
  13. Inspect and report as in need of repair mechanical drain-stops that are missing or do not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs.
  14. Inspect and report as in need of repair commodes that have cracks in the ceramic material, are improperly mounted on the floor, leak, or have tank components which do not operate.
  1. The service line.
  2. The meter box.
  3. The main disconnect.
  4. And determine the service amperage.
  5. Panels, breakers and fuses.
  6. The grounding.
  7. The bonding.
  8. A representative sampling of switches, receptacles, light fixtures, and ground circuit interrupters.
  9. And report the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring if readily visible.
  10. And report on any GFCI-tested receptacles in which power is not present, polarity is incorrect, the receptacle is not grounded, is not secured to the wall, the cover is not in place, the ground fault circuit interrupter devices are not properly installed or do not operate properly, or evidence of arcing or excessive heat is present.
  11. The service entrance conductors and the condition of their sheathing.
  12. The ground fault circuit interrupters with a GFCI tester.
  13. And describe the amperage rating of the service.
  14. And report the absence of smoke detectors.
  15. Service entrance cables and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the integrity of the insulation, drip loop, or separation of conductors at weatherheads and clearances.
  1. The fireplace, and open and close the damper door if readily accessible and operable.
  2. Hearth extensions and other permanently installed components.
  3. And report as in need of repair deficiencies in the lintel, hearth and material surrounding the fireplace, including clearance from combustible materials
  1. The insulation in unfinished spaces.
  2. The ventilation of attic spaces.
  3. Mechanical ventilation systems.
  4. And report on the general absence or lack of insulation.
  1. Open and close a representative number of doors and windows.
  2. Inspect the walls, ceilings, steps, stairways, and railings.
  3. Inspect garage doors and garage door openers by operating first by remote (if available) and then by the installed automatic door control.
  4. And report as in need of repair any installed electronic sensors that are not operable or not installed at proper heights above the garage door.
  5. And report as in need of repair any door locks or side ropes that have not been removed or disabled when garage door opener is in use.
  6. And report as in need of repair any windows that are obviously fogged or display other evidence of broken seals.
  1. Check cabinets, drawers
  2. Verify operation of fan
  3. Verify operation of stove and refrigerator
  4. Check plumbing
  1. Verify integrity of firewall
  2. Verify operation of garage door
  3. Verify presence of garage door safety features
  4. Door to interior is a fire rated door

Detailed List

If condominium, only owner-responsible items evaluated in this inspection.

Look for modification that may have been done without permits

Snow cover on exterior allows only peripheral, if any, evaluation of much of exterior.

Some non‑original construction has been done on this property. We recommend that an anonymous check be made with the applicable municipality’s building and housing division to see when this address was last permitted without revealing your reasons.

Shed/Hot Tub/Pool/Playground/Sauna/Tennis Courts not inspected

Well/Private sewage disposal not evaluated.

No gutter over entry at eave (S, A).

Some rain gutter components may be likely to leak.

Substantial debris in gutters (M, B).

Poor slope in rain gutters (M, A)

Gutters corroded (M, B)

Some downspouts missing (M, B).

Damaged or loose downspouts (M, B).

Corrosion or rust apparent at downspounts (M, B).

Leaks or decay at downspouts (M, B).

No extensions on downdrains (M, B).

Extensions on downdrains do not carry water away from house

Corrosion or rust apparent at extensions (M, B).

Leaks or decay at extensions (M, B).

Splashbocks do not carry water away from house (M, B).

Corrosion/leaks at splashblocks (M, B).

Splits in wood of fascia (M, C).

Evidence of leaks/stains in soffit/fascia–possible ice/debris dam/no drip edge (M, A).

Unscreened vent openings in soffits (M, C)

Evidence of leaks under eaves–possible ice/debris dam (M, A).

Wood at soil at front porch/stoops/stairs (M, A).

Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at front porch/stoops/stairs (S, A).

Settlement of porch away from house with trip hazard (S, A).

Support posts for roof over porch possibly pulling roof down with settlement (M, A)

Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose–front porch/stoops/stairs (S, A).

Weathered railing/deck boards on front porch (S, A)

Stair related concerns exist at the front porch: Stairs poor lit/spacing between balusters on rail too wide (S, A)

Storm or screen door automatic closer in disrepair (P, B).

Screen door has torn screen/broken window/hardware disrepair (P, B).

Front/Side/Rear door hardware disrepair/broken window/poor fit/split/severely weathered/dragging on floor/doesn’t stay shut without locking (S ,A).

Planter settling away from house/deteriorating (M, B).

Trees or shrubs too close to house (M, B).

Concrete surface broken on walks (M, A).

Trip hazard on walks due to settling and/or buckling (S, A).

Wood at soil at walk (M, A).

Significant cracks exist at the garage‑house/chimney‑house junction(s) (M, A).

Wood touching soil at foundation exterior wall or cover (M, B)

Minor cracks in foundation-‑probably represent primarily a cosmetic concern-‑patch (M, A).

Medium sized cracks in foundation or wall. Could consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice.

Major foundation or wall cracks/settlement/bulging/out of plumb. Should consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice.

Cracks in the outside wall are vertical/horizontal/diagonal (see notes above).

Exterior wall brick mortar deteriorating (M, A).

Exterior wall siding is damaged/has no vent holes (M, A).

New stucco may be prone to cracking shortly after installed/is deteriorating (M, A).

Possible asbestos siding on this house. Contact an industrial hygienist about this issue (S, A).

Ventilation openings on the house are unscreened (M, A).

Evidence of possible previous fire on the exterior of the house (M, A).

Vines reduce the opportunity to inspect/has or may result in damage to sidewalls, etc. of the house (M, A).

There is apparently some span sag over windows/doors/openings in the exterior wall of this home (M, A).

Parging deteriorating/missing on foundation wall (P, C)

Panels/shingles/masonry/concrete missing/split/loose/delaminating/deteriorating on exterior walls (M, A).

Grading around perimeter of house flat or toward house (M, B).

Concrete at house perimeter slopes toward house (M,A).

Minor/Major paint peeling in some exterior areas (M, B).

Entire house appears to need repainting (M, A).

Window screens missing (M, C).

Window screens damaged (M, B).

Some double pane windows have evidence of condensation (M, C).

Some windows cracked/broken (M, B).

Some windows appear to not be weather tight (M, B).

Expect some casements to not operate properly (M, B).

Window air conditioning/evaporative cooler unit(s) appear to not be level/firmly supported (S, A).

Exterior wood around window(s) deteriorating (M, B)..

Air circulation around window air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit appears blocked (trees, shrubs, etc. block the unit) (M,A).

Window air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit is noisy/dusty/rusted/corroded/leaks/leaf riddled (M, A).

Housing covers on the window air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit are not all in place (M, A).

System winterized.

Window evaporative cooler drain line missing/doesn’t take water away from house (M, B).

South or west face window air conditioning unit is not protected by shade or awning (M, A).

Basement window(s) wood deteriorating (S, A).

Two pane basement window shows some condensation and so the glass may need replacement (M, A).

Basement window broken (S, A).

Basement windows appear to be below grade without window wells (M, A).

Inadequate window wells (M, A).

Window wells not covered with rain repelling cover (M, B)

No grid over window wells near patio/walk, etc, (M, A)

Caulking/sealing around outside wall penetrations appears poor (M, A).

No cover over outlet/switch/junction box at exterior (S, A)

Wire connections exposed outside due to no junction box/no conduit (S, A)

Lamp cord used outside in lieu of “hard wire” (S, A).

Unachored electrical boxes (S, A).

Inoperable/loose/inadequate/broken outlets on exterior (S, A).

Wired taped at junctions (S, A).

Ungrounded 3 prong outside outlets–use 2 prong or ground (S, A)

Reversed electrical polarity at exterior outlets (S, A).

Switch defect exists on exterior switch (S, A).

Exterior GFCI outlet not operating properly (M, A).

Exterior outlet not properly weatherstripped (S, A).

Exterior switch not properly weatherstripped (S, A).

Faucet splashblocks recommended (M, B).

Outside faucet dripping (M, A).

Evaporative cooler may still be/appears to have been connected in the winter with possible freeze to the line (S, A).

Evaporative cooler appears to be disconnected during the normal operating season. We are unable to fully check the cooler as a result (M, A).

Possible freeze to hose bib/faucet (S, A).

Hose faucet froze previously and may leak at inside wall (M, A).

Air conditioning unit(s) not level (M, A). This results in a less efficiently operating unit and many times results in a shorter useful life of the unit.

Inadequate or no platform on the exterior air conditioner unit (M, A).

Air circulation around exterior air conditioner/evaporative cooler unit appears blocked (trees, shrubs, etc. block the unit) (M,A).

Outdoor temperature too cool to allow for evaluation of central air conditioning.

Air conditioning oil heating elements not on for at least 24 hours prior to inspection and so air conditioning not evaluated.

The exterior air conditioner unit is breakered/fused at a level that is greater than that for which the unit was designed (M, A).

Electrical service line to house too close to ground (S, A).

The pole-to-house wires are not drip looped where they connect at the house (e.g. at the masthead or near the anchor) (S, A).

Building/Trees/Antenna touching electrical service line to house (S, A).

The electrical meter base appears loose (S, A).

Non-conduited wire appears too close to ground level (S, A). Check if can conduit without complete exterior upgrade.

The main breaker/fuse on the house wiring is 30 40 50 60 70 80 100 125 150 200 Other None (S, A).

The service wires that extend from the telephone pole to the house are frayed. Consider contacting the electric company to replace these (S, A).

The main breaker/fuse panel box is loose/not properly covered (S, A).

There are no shutoff valves/warning signs for the gas/oil main supply line(s) (S, A).

The gas/oil supply tank is significantly rusted (S, A).

There is evidence of spills/odors/gauge problems with the exterior fuel/oil supply system (S, A).

The oil tank‑to‑burner supply pipe is not underground (S, A).

The well on this property appears to be used for drinking water. Check with the proper water authorities to verify that this well has been tested and is approved for drinking water (S, A).

Well used for drinking water is located less than 100 feet from/downhill from the likely location of a septic drain field (S,A).

Supply pipe from well head to house not adequately underground/insulated (M, A).

Septic Tank/Private Sewer: Odors/ Dark hue to grass or snow melted off only at likely drain field pipe locations (S, A).

Basement stairs rail missing (S, A).

No areaway drain at base of stairs to basement (M, A).

Drain at base of exterior stairs appears plugged (M, A).

Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at basement stairs (S, A).

Wood at soil at rear porch/stoops/stairs (M, A).

Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at rear porch/stoop/stairs (S, A)

Settlement of rear porch away from house with trip hazard (S, A).

Support posts for roof over rear porch possibly pulling roof down with settlement (M, A).

Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose–rear porch/stoops/stairs (S, A).

Weathered railing/deck boards on rear porch (S, A)

Spacing between balusters on rear porch rail too wide (S, A)

Glass patio door glass broken/cracked/loose/unmarked as tempered (S, A).

Wood at soil at patio, deck, balcony, side porch (M, A).

Deck/Balcony not bolted/screwed to wall under floor level (S, A).

Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at balcony/deck/patio/side porch (S, A).

Support posts for roof over balcony/deck/patio/side porch possibly pulling roof down with settlement (M, A).

Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose–balcony/deck/patio/side porch (S, A).

Spacing between balusters on balcony/deck/patio/garage rail too wide (S, A).

Missing/weathered railing/deck boards at balcony/deck/patio/garage (S, A).

Concrete surface broken on driveway (M, A).

Trip hazard on driveway due to settling and/or buckling (S, A).

Poor drainage on driveway or other parking surface (M, A).

Driveway asphalt needs resealing (M, B).

Driveway asphalt needs patching (M, A)

Driveway slopes toward garage without opportunity for drainage (M, A).

The dirt/gravel driveway has major ruts (S, A).

Wood embedded at the soil at driveway. Represents a potential attraction for termites and other word destroying insects(M,A).

Weep holes do not exist in retaining walls (M, A).

Retaining wall shows signs of being slightly out of plumb (watch/check periodically for additional settlement after take preventative action -‑e.g., drill weep holes, eliminate uphill pressure etc) (S, A).

Retaining wall shows signs of being moderately/severely out of plumb. Consider measures to correct/replace the retaining wall.

No rail above retaining wall (S, A)

Untreated wood at soil at retaining wall (M, B).

No “dead man” anchors railroad tie retaining wall to help keep the wall from tipping downhill (M, A).

Masonry deteriorating at retaining wall (M or S, A or B).

Concrete deteriorating at retaining wall (S or M, A or B).

Some retaining walls not evaluable due to vines or scrubs at lot line/other retaining wall.

Minor damage to fence (P, C).

Moderate damage to fence (M, B).

Significant damage to fence (M, B).

Gates/hardware of fence not functioning properly (M, B).

Erosion has weakened some fence supports (M, B).

Chain link/wrought iron fence posts rusted/damaged/not embedded in concrete (M, B).

No drainage ditch or catch basin above building on uphill grade to divert water around house (M, A).

No drainage ditch or catch basin above building on uphill grade of adjacent property to divert water around house (M, A).

Stream nearby which could potentially create a risk of water infiltration into the lower levels of the house (M, A).

Significant erosion apparent in lot grading (M, A).

Sump pump apparently exists on property. This could suggest a water table problem or drainage problem on the property (M,A).

Soggy spots or ponding on lawn could indicate a drainage, water table, or water supply leak (e.g. sprinkler leak, etc.) on the property (M, A).

Poor landscaping (e.g. entire lawn burned, etc.) exists on the property (M, B).

The yard is not fully graded (e.g. unfinished portions, etc.) (M, A).

Severe corrosion/rust apparent on drip edge (e.g. portions of drip edge rusted through, etc.) (M, B).

Inspector  did  not  mount  roof  because  too  cold/snow/ice/rain/too  steep/too  high/other

Recommend  heat  tape  where  ice  damming  may  occur  (M,  A).

Some  heat  tape  on  the  roof  overlaps  with  itself  (S,  A).

At  least  3  layers  of  shingles  exist  on  roof  currently.    This  may  mean  that  you  might  have  to  remove  at  least  one  of  the  layers  of  shingles  before  applying  a  new  layer  (cost=approximately  an  additional  50%  of  new  shingles  if  done  at  time  of  new  shingle  application)  (M,  A).  This  cost  does  not  include  any  costs  related  to  new  or  replacement  sheathing,  if  necessary,  to  go  beneath  the  new  shingles  for  support  (cost=approximately  an  additional  50%  of  new  shingles  if  done  at  time  of  new  shingle  application  M,A)

Ridge  of  roof  sags  (S,  A).

Decking  of  roof  (different  planes  of  roof  that  shingles  rest  on)  is  sagging  (S,  A).

Trees  scraping  roof  with  risk  of  damage  significant  enough  to  reduce  life  of  roof  (M,  A).

South  face  of  roof  damaged  (M,  A)

Minor  portions  of  roof  need  reroofing  (S,  A).

Moderate  portions  of  roof  need  reroofing.    (S,  A).

Large  portions  of  roof  need  reroofing.  Consider  replacing  entire  roof  since  replacing  only  the  parts  of  the  roof  that  need replacement  may  be  about  the  same  costs  as  complete  replacement  (S,  A).

Moderate/major  roof  damage  in  distinct  sections  on  the  roof.    This  means  that  portions  of  the  roof  may  be  replaceable  without  replacing  the  entire  roof  so  long  as  there  is  enough  estimated  remaining  useful  life  on  the  remainder  of  the  roof  to  make  this  partial  replacement  worthwhile  (M,  A).

Moderate/major  roof  damage  in  random  sections  on  the  roof.    This  means  that  it  would  probably  not  be  cost-effective  to  partially  replace  the  portions  of  the  roof  that  are  damaged  as  such  a  process  may  be  almost  as  costly  as  replacing  the  entire  roof.      It  is  probably  better  to  replace  the  entire  roof  to  make  reroofing  a  more  cost-effective  decision  (M,  A).

Damage  below  cooler  (M,  A).

Possible  sheathing  damage  to  roof  (e.g.  apparent  pits  in  roof  material  that  may  indicate  damaged  sheathing  below,  etc.)  (M,A).

Flashings  to  the  roof  are  not  properly  set  (e.g.,  the  penetrations  through  the  roof  were  not  set  properly  when  it  was  reroofed,  etc)  (M,  A).

Estimated  remaining  useful  life  of  house  roof  with  repairs  recommended,  if  any:  0‑5  5‑10  10‑15  15‑20  20+      years

Elastomer  roof  material  has  tears  in  it    (M,  A).

Rigid  tiles  slipping  from  course  line  (S,  A).

Rigid  tiles  cracked  or  missing  (S,  A).

Rigid  roof  with  less  than  3/12  pitch–have  roofer  check  (S,  A).

Some  shingles  are  curling.  This  limits  the  life  of  the  shingles  significantly  (see  estimated  remaining  useful  life  of  roof)  (M,A).

Shingles  are  cracked.    This  usually  means  the  shingles  are  past  approximately  the  midpoint  of  their  useful  life  (usually  a  watch  situation)  (M,  A).

Some  shingles  are  missing/torn  (M,  A).

Some  shingles  missing  some  granules.  This  may  indicate  that  the  shingles  are  approaching  the  end  of  their  estimated  remaining  useful  life  (M,  A).

Shingle  roof  with  less  than  3/12  pitch–have  roofer  check  (M,  A).

Metal  valleys  on  wood  roofs  are  likely  to  wear  before  the  wood  roof  material  does    (M,  A).

Holes  exist  in  the  valleys  of  the  wood  roof    (M,  A).

Recommend  oil  and  graphite  coating  on  wood  shingles/shakes  (M,  A).

Some  wood  shakes/shingles  have  “burn”  in  some  places-‑recommend  replacement  of  those  occasional  shingles  (M,  A).

Occasional  rot  found  on  wood  roof  (M,  A).

Wood  shakes/shingles  show  signs  of  minor  curling-‑could  be  due  to  a  recent  rain  or  represent  permanent  curling  (M,  A).

Some  wood  shakes/shingles  splitting/missing  (M,  A).

Some  felt  exposed  on  wood  shake  roof    (M,  A).

Many  wood  shingles  or  shakes  show  significant  wear.  e.g.,  greater  than  50%,  and  are  near  the  end  of  their  life  expectancy  (M,A).

Wood  roof  with  less  than  4/12  pitch–have  roofer  check  (M,  A).

Exposed  felt  on  tar  roof  (S,  A).

Some  cracking  evident  on  some  areas  of  tar  (S,  A).

Bubbling/blisters  evident  on  tar  roof  (S,  A).

Some  areas  of  tar  roof  without  rocks/reflectors  (M,  A).

Curling/pulling  away  of  tar  roof  at  edges  (S,  A).

Ponding/poor  drainage  evident/likely.    Correct  at  next  reroofing.  (M,  A)

The  pitch  of  this  built  up  roof  may  allow  for  asphalt  shingles.    Evaluate  for  this  possibility  before  reroofing.

Rolled  roofing  more  likely  to  leak  than  rest  of  roof  and  generally  will  have  a  useful  life  of  about  only  5‑10  years.

Rolled  roofing  deteriorated  (M,  A).

Rolled  roofing  wrinkled.    This  could  significantly  reduce  the  estimated  remaining  useful  life  of  the  roof  material  (M,  A).

Rolled  roofing  cracking.    This  usually  means  the  material  is  past  approximately  the  midpoint  of  its  useful  life  (usually  a  watch  situation)  (M,  A).

Rolled  roofing  installed  on  a  roof  with  less  than  an  appropriate  pitch.    The  pitch  of  the  roof  is  not  a  proper  application  by  manufacturer’s  instructions  and  its  serviceability  is  indeterminable  (M,  A).

Two  sloped  roofs  meet  without  good  drainage–poor  roof  design  (S,  A).

Sloped/flat  roof  without  good  drainage—  poor  roof  design  (S,  A).

Flat  part  worn  more  than  sloped–replace  flat  (S,  A).

Sloped/wall  roof  without  good  drainage–poor  roof  design  (S,  A).

Substantial  debris  in  gutters  (M,  C).

Previous  repair/replacement  of  roof  partial.  This  means  some  parts  of  the  roof  may  need  replacement  before  other  sections  (M,A)

Corroded  metal  roof  materials  on  roof.      This  could  indicate  that  the  roof  material  is  approaching  the  end  of  its  useful  life  (M,A).

Chimney  masonry  deteriorating  (M,  A).

Chimney  cap  damaged  (M,  A).

Concrete  capped  tile  flue  deteriorating  (M,  B).

No  screen  covers  on  chimney  (S,  A)‑‑should  be  at  least  1/4″  mesh‑do  not  use  window  screen.

Recommend  “crickets”  installed  above  chimney–next  reroofing

Chimney  or  skylight  flashing  not  stepped  into  mortar  or  caulked  on  pitched  sides  of  chimney  (M,  A).

A  TV  antennae  or  other  device  is  connected  to  chimney  and  has  damaged  it  (M,  A).

The  chimney  is  not  at  least  about  20  ft  above  floor  level  of  the  fireplace  it  services  and  there  is  evidence  that  backdrafting  is  occurring  above  the  fireplace  inside  (S,  A).

The  top  of  the  chimney  is  not  at  least  3  ft  above  the  level  of  the  flat  roof  around  it  or  it  is  not  at  least  10  ft  on  the  horizontal  away  from  a  pitched  roof  (S,  A).

Dormer  flashings/seals  appear  to  be  inadequate/worn/corroded  (M,  A).

Roof  parapet  wall  coping  is  not  sloped  toward  the  roof  (M,  A).

Flashing  at  combustion/sewer  vents  inadequate-‑e.g.,  cracked/no  flash  at  top  of  conical  flashing,  etc.(M,  A).

Flashing  at  combustion/sewer  vents  deteriorated  (M,  A).

No  screened  covers  over  combustion  air  vents  (S,  A)‑‑should  be  at  least  1/4″  mesh-‑do  not  use  window  screen.

Combustion  vents  below  top  of  evaporative  cooler  (S,  A).

No  drain  line  to  carry  evaporative  cooler  overflow  water  off  of  roof  or  unit  is  leaking.    This  has  resulted/could  result  in  significant  damage  to  the  roof  below  the  evaporative  cooler  (M,  A).

No  drain  line  to  carry  evaporative  cooler  overflow  water  off  roof.    This  could  result  in  significant  damage  to  the  roof  below  the  evaporative  cooler  although  we  are  unable  to  evaluate  possible  damage  due  to  snow  on  roof  (M,  A).

Evaporative  cooler  unit  is  not  step  flashed  on  sides.  At  least  add  step  flashing  at  next  re‑roofing  (M,  A).

Evaporative  cooler  winterized  and  so  not  evaluable.

Housing  covers  on  the  evaporative  cooler  are  not  all  properly  placed  (S,  A).

Evaporative  cooler  does  not  appear  to  be  firmly  attached  (S,  A).

The  evaporative  cooler  overflow  drains  to  the  sewer  (S,  A).

Some  of  the  asphalt/plastic/parapet  wall  flashing/counterflashing/valleys  sewer  vents/flue  vents  are  inadequate/corroded/cracked    (M,  A).

Inadequate diagonal wall supports in garage (S, A).

Inadequate diagonal with garage walls out of plumb (S, A).

Garage roof has inadequate cross members (S, A).

There is noticeable settlement at garage foundation. Recommend structural engineer or contractor for further evaluate (S, A).

Inspector did not mount garage roof because too cold/snow/ice/rain/too steep/too high/other

135 Apparently garage roof has 3 or more layers of roofing. At added cost you may have to remove a layer before adding one (S, A).

Ridge/Deck of garage roof sags (S, A).

Trees scraping garage roof with risk of damage significant enough to reduce life of roof (M, A).

South face of garage roof covering damaged (S, A).

Minor portions of garage roof need reroofing (S, A).

Moderate portions of garage roof need reroofing (S, A).

Large portions of garage roof need reroofing. Consider replacing entire roof since replacing only the parts of the roof that need replacement may be about the same costs as complete replacement (S, A).

Possible sheathing damage to garage roof (e.g. apparent pits in roof material may indicate damaged sheathing below, etc.) (M, A).

Flashings to the garage roof are not properly set (e.g. the penetrations through the roof were not set properly when it was reroofed, etc.) (M, A).

Estimated remaining useful life of garage roof: 0‑5 5‑10 10‑15 15‑20 20+ years

Elastomer garage roof material has tears in it (M, A).

Rigid tiles on garage roof slipping from course line (S, A).

Rigid tiles on garage roof cracked or missing (S, A).

Some shingles are curling on garage roof. This limits the life of shingles significantly (see est remaining useful life of roof) (M,A).

Shingles are cracked on garage roof. This usually means the shingles are past approximately the midpoint of their useful life

(usually a watch situation ) (M, A).

Some garage roof shingles are missing (M, A).

Some garage shingles are torn (M, A).

Some shingles on garage roof missing some granules. This may indicate that the shingles are approaching the end of their estimated remaining useful life (M, A).

Garage asphalt roof with less than 3/12 pitch–have roofer check (S, A).

Metal valleys on garage wood roof is likely to wear before the wood roof material does (M, A).

Recommend oil and graphite coating on wood shingles/shakes of garage (M, A).

Some wood shakes/shingles have “burn” in some places on garage roof-‑recommend replacement of those shingles (M, A).

Wood shakes/shingles of garage roof show signs of minor curling. Could be due to a recent rain or permanent curling (M,A).

Some wood shakes/shingles splitting on garage roof (M, A).

Some wood shakes/shingles missing on garage roof (M, A).

Exposed felt on garage wood roof (S, A)

Most wood shingles/shakes on garage roof are 50% or more deteriorated (S, A).

Garage wood roof with less than 4/12 pitch–have roofer check (S, A).

Exposed felt on garage tar roof (S, A)

Some cracking evident on some areas of garage tar roof (S, A)

Bubbling/blisters evident on garage tar roof (S, A).

Some areas of garage tar roof without rocks/reflectors (M, A)

Curing/pulling away of garage tar roof at edges (S, A)

Garage tar roof ponding evident/likely. Correct at next reroofing (S, A).

The pitch of this built up garage roof may allow for asphalt shingles. Evaluate for this possibility before reroofing.

Rolled roofing more likely to leak than rest of garage roof (M, A).

Rolled roofing on garage deteriorated (M, A).

Rolled roofing on garage wrinkled. This could significantly reduce the estimated remaining useful life of the roof material (M,A).

Rolled roofing of garage cracking. This usually means the material is past approximately the midpoint of its useful life (usually a watch situation) (M, A).

Rolled roofing torn on garage roof. This should be repaired since it is a clear break in the roofing material (M, A).

Rolled roofing installed on a garage roof with less than a 2 in 12 pitch. The pitch of the roof is not a proper application by manufacturer’s instructions and its serviceability is indeterminable (S, A).

Two sloped garage roofs without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).

Sloped/flat garage roof without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).

Flat part worn more than sloped–replace flat (S, A).

Sloped/wall garage roof without good drainage–poor roof design (S, A).

Wood touching soil at garage foundation, exterior wall or covering (M, A).

Exterior garage wall brick mortar deteriorating (M, A).

Exterior garage wall siding has no vent holes/is damaged (M, A).

Minor cracks in garage foundation walls-‑probably represent primarily a cosmetic concern-‑cover with parging or patch (M,A).

Medium sized crack(s) in garage foundation or exterior wall. Could consider consulting with structural contractor or engineer to further evaluate (S, A).

Major garage foundation or wall cracks/settlement/bulging/out of plumb. Should consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice (S, A).

Cracks in the outside garage wall are vertical/horizontal/diagonal (see notes above).

Vines reduce the opportunity to inspect/has or may result in damage to garage sidewalls, etc. of the house (M, A).

Deteriorating stucco (M, A).

Possible asbestos siding on garage–contact industrial hygienist (S, A).

Parging deteriorating/missing on garage foundation wall (P, C)

Evidence of possible previous fire on the exterior of the garage (M, A).

There is apparently some span sag over garage windows/doors/openings in the exterior wall of this home (M, A).

Broken window at garage (S, A).

Trip hazard on garage floor (S, A).

The floor level is not lower than the house floor level on your attached garage (S, A).

The garage support posts are damaged/not embedded in concrete (non‑wood)/not supported by footing (wood) (S, A).

Fire wall between house and garage not continuous on garage side (e.g. missing drywall, dryer vent in wall, plastic central vacuum line in wall, etc. (M, A).

Garage walls out of plumb.

Rear wall of garage bowed out (S, A).

Rear wall of garage damaged (P, B).

Evidence of leaks in ceiling of garage (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no cover over outlet box at garage (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no cover over switch box at garage (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no cover over junction box where wires meet at garage (S, A).

Wire connections exposed without junction box installation at garage (S, A).

Wire connections exposed without conduit protection at garage (S, A).

Evidence of leaks in ceiling of garage (S, A).

Lamp cord used in lieu of “hard wire” at garage (S, A).

Electrical boxes in garage not adequately anchored (S, A).

Some outlets inoperable/loose/inadequate/broken at garage (S, A).

Wires taped at junctions at garage (S, A).

Ungrounded three prong outlets at garage-‑change to two prong outlet or establish ground to outlet (S, A).

Reversed electrical polarity in outlet(s) at garage (S, A).

Switch possibly defective at garage (S, A).

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlet in garage not properly operating (S, A).

Wires to garage may not be exterior grade (S, A).

Garage vehicle door damaged (S, A).

Garage vehicle door sticking (S, A).

Garage vehicle door spring apparently damaged (S, A).

Wires to garage hanging too low to ground (S, A).

Garage door opener not automatic reversing (S, A).

Garage door opener automatic reversing needs adjustment (S, A).

Trip hazard: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting at garage (S, A)

Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose at garage (S, A).

Spacing between garage stair balusters on rail too wide (S, A).

No metal/fire rated/solid core common door between house and garage (S, A).

Door between house and garage is not auto closing/does not apparently have a very good weatherstrip (S, A).

Side door to garage has been damaged/fits the opening poorly (M, C).

There is a possible freeze to spigots or hose bibs that exist in the garage in a cold weather area (M, A).

There is no insulation on pipes in unheated garage/in the exterior wall(s) of the garage in cold weather area (M, A).

The garage has a coal/wood stove in it. This is an extreme fire hazard. Remove from the garage area immediately (S, A).

The garage has a vent/heater/water heater that is less than 18″ off ground (S, A).

Some appliances/tanks are unprotected from potential damage from a car (S, A).

The garage has a return air/undampered vent in it (S, A).

Attic was not traversed due to risk of injury to inspector and damage to house.

Storage prevents access to better inspect attic.

No accessible attic space

Could add more insulation to attic space. This would be one of the most cost‑effective “repairs” that could be done on this home (P, A). However, if the home is of a rafter type, it is likely that some additional support may be required for your roof deck. Additional insulation may allow larger amounts of snow to build up on the roof.

Uneven distribution of insulation in attic (M, A).

Possible asbestos insulation in attic space (S, A).

No insulation around skylight on attic side (M, A).

Exposed foam board insulation in attic space (S, A).

Ventilation openings in the attic are unscreened (M, A).

Evidence of adverse conditions due to poor ventilation (e.g. frost, condensation etc) (M, A).

Evidence of roof and rafters bowing. Recommend contacting structural contractor to provide additional bracing or repairs (S, A).

The roof deck supports are not properly braced on a load bearing support (e.g. the center load bearing wall in the house) (S,A).

Rafters in attic show signs of splitting/cracking (S, A)

The lower ends of the roof rafters at the eaves are significantly raised above the ceiling joists level in the attic space, and, thus, are not tied into the joist ends. In this house this is resulting in a ballooning in some of the walls below the attic space (S, A).

Light visible at some penetrations through roof (M, A)

Evidence of leaks at evaporative cooler penetration in roof at attic (M, A).

Evidence of leaks at flue penetration in roof at attic (M, A).

Evidence of leaks at chimney penetration in roof at attic (M, A).

Evidence of leaks at sewer vent penetrations in roof at attic (M, A).

Evidence of leaks at deck at attic (M, A).

Leak evident at sloped/sloped roof juncture–attic side (M, A).

Leaks evident at sloped/flat juncture–attic side (M, A).

Evidence of leaks at roof/wall juncture from attic side (M, A).

Evidence of leaks around eaves from attic side (M, A).

Evidence of leaks on underside of roof‑possibly due to previous or current roof covering (S, A).

Flue too close to combustibles (S, A).

Openings or non‑masonry covers over openings to chimney flue on attic side of chimney (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no cover over outlet/switch/junction box where wires meet at attic (S, A).

Wire connections exposed without junction box installation at attic (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no conduit in attic space where the wires may be exposed to traffic, etc. (e.g. over floor boards, etc.) (S, A).

Lamp cord used in lieu of “hard wire” in attic (S, A).

Unachored electrical boxes (S, A).

Inoperable/loose/inadequate/broken outlets in attic (S, A).

Wires taped at junctions at attic (S, A).

Ungrounded 3 prong attic outlets–use 2 prong or ground (S, A).

Reversed electrical polarity at attic outlets (S, A).

Switch possibly defective in attic (S, A).

Exterior GFCI outlet not operating properly in attic (M, A).

Some recessed lights apparently in contact with insulation at attic. Check to be sure that the manufacturer’s installation instructions allow for the fixture to be in contact with insulation or move insulation away from the fixture (S, A).

Sewer/flue vent pipes terminate in attic (S, A).

Some flooring in the attic is sagging/damaged (S, A).

Some windows cracked/broken in attic (M, B).

Attic door(s) are not properly weatherstripped/allow infiltration of cold air (M, B).

Air conditioning unit in the attic has no drain line/backup drain line for the condensate drain pan (S, A).

Air conditioning unit drain pan drain line/backup drain line in the attic has an inadequate slope/is not “P” trapped (S, A).

Leakage of condensate/rust is apparent at or around the condensate drain system in the attic (S, A).

Air conditioning refrigerant lines in the attic are not adequately insulated (M, B).

All exterior doors do not have operable deadbolts or standard locks (S, A).

Sliding glass door difficult to open/lock inoperable (S, A)

All exterior doors are not solid core (S, A).

Operable smoke detectors do not exist in the appropriate places on appropriate floors-‑levels 1 2 3 4 5 (levels circled without operating detector) (S, A).

No battery in smoke detectors (S, A).

Trip hazard at stairs: non‑uniform/<11″ treads/short step/covering deteriorated/projecting between: level 1 and 2

level 2 to 3 level 3 to 4 level 4 to 5 (applicable levels circled) (S, A).

Rail/stair rail/rail components missing/ungraspable/broken continuity/loose— interior stairs: level 1 to 2 level 2 to 3

level 3 to 4 level 4 to 5 (applicable levels circled) (S, A).

Stairwell related problem may exist: Poorly lit/no 3 way switch between: level 1 and 2 level 2 to 3 level 3 to 4

level 4 to 5 (applicable levels circled) (S, A).

Balusters spaced too wide between stairs level: 1 to 2 level 2 to 3 Level 3 to 4 Level 4 to 5 (S, A).

Stairwell has poor headroom/width (S, A).

Evaporative cooler appears winterized and so was not checked (M, B).

Evaporative cooler sounds rough/not blowing air (M, B).

Evaporative cooler water pump may not be working (M, B).

Leaks evident in ceiling-evaporative cooler register. (M, A).

Some central vacuum ports do not appear to be operable (P, C).

No doorbell (P, B).

Doorbell not ringing (M, B).

Doorbell button broken (M, C).

No unfinished basement areas.

Crawlspace not completely accessible and so not fully evaluable.

Basement ceiling height inadequate. If apartment, anonymously check with municipality on requirements (S, A).

Wood in crawlspace/basement touching soil. This attracts termites (M, A).

Significant storage in basement area severely limits basement evaluation.

Crawlspace/Basement girders or beams significantly sag (M, A).

Some windows in basement are broken (S, A ).

Masonry/mortar in basement/crawlspace foundation deteriorating (M, A).

Ventilation openings in the crawlspace are unscreened (M, A).

Minor cracks in foundation-‑probably represent primarily a cosmetic concern-‑patch (M, A).

Medium sized crack(s) in foundation or exterior wall. Could consider consulting with structural contractor or engineer to provide a letter of evaluation for your information and persons purchasing from you in the future (S, A).

Major foundation or wall cracks/settlement/bulging/out of plumb. Should consider structural contractor’s/engineer’s advice (S, A).

Cracks in the outside wall are vertical/horizontal/diagonal (see notes above) (S, A).

Footings to the foundation are apparently above the frost line in a cold weather area (M, A).

Footings to the foundation are not supported by soil below (e.g. erosion of soil below) (M, A).

Footing are separated from the foundation (M, A).

Minor effervescence evident in some areas of crawlspace/basement (see grading and downspout issues) (M, A).

Some other evidence of water entry at crawlspace/basement walls (see grading, downspout, and drainage issues) (M, A).

Stains at base of crawlspace/basement walls indicate water in basement (see grading and downspout issues) (M, A).

Stains on outside crawlspace/basement walls indicate water infiltration (see grading and downspout issues) (M, A).

Mildew apparent in crawlspace/basement area (M, A).

Peeling paint in crawlspace/basement (M, A).

Rusted appliance bases or wet soil in crawlspace/basement (M, A).

Appliances being mounted up off of the floor in crawlspace/basement (M, A).

Sedimentary deposits/water inflow in crawlspace/basement area indicates water and/or moisture problems (M, A).

Hearth forms not removed (M, A)

Mortar/brick deteriorated (M A).

Evidence of possible water entry, e.g., effervescence, etc. (M, A).

Possible asbestos wrap on furnace ductwork. In order to determine whether the material is actually asbestos, it must be tested by an appropriate lab. For more information contact an industrial hygienist (see Yellow Pages) (S, A).

No rim joist insulation in at least some areas of basement (P, A).

Exposed foam board insulation in crawlspace/basement (S, A).

Water pipes/furnace ductwork not adequately insulated in crawlspace (P, A).

Water heater not adequately insulated (M, B).

No di-electrical insulation between copper pipe and steel (S, A).

Bearing walls apparently above ceiling without girders, framed wall or other supports to adequately support the load bearing (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no cover over outlet/switch box in basement or crawlspace (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no cover over junction box where wires meet in basement or crawlspace (S, A).

Wire connections exposed without junction box installation in basement or crawlspace (S, A).

Wire connections exposed due to no conduit in basement/crawlspace where the wires may be exposed to traffic, etc. (e.g. over flooring, concrete walls, etc.) (S, A).

Lamp cord used in basement as “hard wire” (S, A).

Unanchored electrical box(es) in basement (1 per outlet) (S, A).

Inoperable/Loose/Inadequate/Broken outlets in basement/crawlspace (S, A).

Wires taped at junctions in basement/crawlspace (S, A).

Ungrounded three prong outlets in basement or crawlspace‑change to two prong outlet or establish ground to outlet ( S, A).

Reversed electrical polarity in outlet(s) in basement or crawlspace (S, A).

Switch possibly defective in basement/crawlspace (S, A).

Trusses/joists cracking/significantly bowing in basement/crawlspace (S, A).

Evidence of previous fire in basement/crawlspace area (S, A).

Trusses Some staining or water damage in some exposed flooring above looking from crawlspace side below a plumbing fixture (M, A).

Some staining or water damage in some exposed flooring above looking from basement side below a plumbing fixture (M,A).

No vapor barrier over earthen crawlspace floor or underside of floor upstairs. Consider laying a tar paper or visqueen layer over earth to avoid high humidity or moisture to crawlspace components, etc (M, C).

Basement/crawl girders/beams cracked/significantly sagging (M, A)

Wood supports in crawlspace/basement touching soil. This is an attraction for wood destroying insects (M, A).

Support posts in basement significantly settling/deteriorated (M, A).

Significant soil erosion under/near support posts in crawl (M, A).

Basement/crawl masonry supports/mortar deteriorating (M, A).

Hearth forms not removed. This represents an unnecessary risk of attracting termites and other wood destroying organisms (M,A).

Cracks in apparently non-load bearing walls in basement/crawlspace (M, B).

Significant basement floor damage(e.g. trip hazard, etc.) (M, A).

No drain cover on floor drain (M, A).

Basement/crawl level drainage plumbing serviced by a septic/sump pump.

Sump pump may not be operating properly/without check valve/may freeze (M, A).

Sump pump is not exposed and so cannot be evaluated.

Sump pump does not discharge more than 6 feet outside of house (M, A).

Concrete slab is settling/heaving up/significantly cracked (S, A)

Concrete slab shows evidence of water seepage/infiltration/effervescence. This could indicate a water table problem (S, A)

Water heater leaking (M, A)

Combustion air backflow on water heater flue (S, A).

Hot water heater inadequately provided with combustion air (S, A).

No supply valve on water heater (M, A).

No supply valve handle on water heater (M, A).

No relief valve on water heater (S, A).

No adequate drain line on temperature and pressure relief valve of water heater (S, A).

No emergency shutoff gas valve exists on water heater (S, A).

Emergency shutoff gas valve on water heater broken (S, A).

Some leaks evident in fuel supply piping around water heater (M, A).

Some fuel supply leaks evident at manufacturer’s valve at water heater (M, A).

Some leaks evident in fuel supply pipe union around water heater (M, A).

Water heater flue near combustibles (S, A).

No flue cleanout on water heater (S, A)

Medium efficiency central heating connected to the same flue as the water heater. This generally may not comply with manufacturer’s installation instructions. Have fuel company or contractor evaluate for manufacturer’s compliance (S, A).

Water heater flue not intact (S, A).

Two flexible brass connectors connected in series on the water heater fuel supply line (S, A)

Evaporative cooler may not have been disconnected fully from water supply for winter–supply line may leak (M, A).

Cooler water supply line is disconnected–cannot evaluate cooler (M, A).

Could not get water heater to operate (S, A).

Water heater unit not properly supported. (S, A).

Inadequate grout around flue at water heater flue/chimney juncture potentially creating a poor drafting situation (S, A).

Some leaks evident in water supply piping at water heater (M, A).

There is some evidence that the water pressure provided to the home is at least at some times too high for the water heaters

(S, A). Consider adding a pressure reducer at an appropriate location on the supply line.

No drip tray under non-ground floor level water heater (M, A).

You apparently have a solar hot water heating system that is used only in summer. There are apparently no conversion valves for switching to winter. (S, A)

There was limited access to the water heater unit and this limited the opportunity to inspect/operate the water heater (S, A).

The oil tank was not visible/not appropriately vented to the outside/rusted/leaking (S, A).

No oil filter in the supply line before fuel enters water heater oil burner (S, A).

Unprotected fuel supply line for the oil fired water heater (e.g. no protective tube and/or not underground) (S, A).

No fire-o-matic safety valves exist at fuel tank/burner/water heating unit (S, A).

No fire-resistant ceiling over the hot water heater (S, A).

Gauge/pipe/fuel line problems/leaks on oil fired hot water heater (S, A).

No barometric draft damper on oil fired hot water heater (S, A).

Soot buildup in unit or flue pipe on oil fired hot water heater (S, A).

Oil fired flame distorted in the firing chamber of the hot water heater (S, A).

Combustion air backflow on heating/central heating flue (S, A).

The burner compartment covers are rusted/inadequate on the heating unit (S, A).

Inadequate combustion air provided for heating unit (S, A).

Possible asbestos wrap on heating unit ductwork/piping. In order to determine whether the material is actually asbestos, it must be tested by an appropriate lab. For more information contact an industrial hygienist (see Yellow Pages) (S, A).

Possible cracked heat exchanger‑-match flame disturbed or blown out when at mixer or burner flame disturbed when fan turns on-‑have fuel company or contractor verify evidence of cracked heat exchanger (S, A).

Recommend you have the fuel company or contractor be asked to check furnace for cracked heat exchanger-‑older than 20 yrs.

There is a compromise in the return air ductwork, etc. for the furnace. Please have a heating specialist further evaluate and repair, if necessary, before moving in.

Some leaks evident in fuel supply piping/manufacturer’s fuel valve around heating system (M, A).

Gas service shut off–unable to fully evaluate gas appliances.

No emergency shutoff gas valve exists on heating unit (S, A).

Emergency shutoff gas valve on heating unit broken (S, A).

The heating unit apparently could not be turned on. Have the unit evaluated by a qualified technician after it has been made operable (S, A).

Medium efficiency furnace does not have a double walled flue as is recommended (S, A).

Flue close to combustibles (S, A).

No flue cleanout on heating unit (S, A).

Inadequate grout around flue at heating unit flue/chimney juncture potentially creating a poor drafting situation (S, A).

Heating system flue not intact (S, A).

The flue dampers on the heating unit are apparently not operating properly (S, A).

There was limited access to the heating unit and this limited the opportunity to inspect/operate the heating unit (S, A).

Some heating system burners appear plugged (S, A).

Heating unit not properly supported. (S, A).

The heating unit appears significantly rusted to potentially effect its estimated remaining useful life (M, A).

An oil tank apparently exists on the property. Have a qualified service company further evaluate the condition and operation of the fuel supply system (S, A).

The pressure on the steam/hot water boiler is too high (S, A).

Pressure gauge on steam/hot water boiler not operating properly (S, A).

Evidence of leaks at steam/hot water boiler/boiler pipes (S, A).

No pressure relief valve/inadequate relief valve drain line on steam/hot water boiler (S, A).

No tempering valve/mixer on the boiler based tankless coil domestic hot water heating system (S, A).

Steam radiators exist below the top of the steam boiler (S, A).

No low water cutoff/alarm on the steam boiler (S, A).

The apparent operating temperature of the steam boiler is higher than is typically recommended (S, A)

The glass gauge on the steam boiler is filled/not operating properly (S, A).

Radiators exist below the level of the hot water boiler and there is no pump to circulate the water (S,A).

No tempering valve/mixer on the hot water boiler based tankless coil domestic hot water heating system (S, A).

The apparent operating temperature of the hot water boiler is higher than is typically recommended (S, A)

Apparently no/an inadequately operating expansion tank exists on the hot water boiler system (S, A).

Apparently the hot water boiler circulating pump is not properly operating (S, A).

The oil tank was not visible/not appropriately vented to the outside/rusted/leaking (S, A).

No oil filter in the supply line before fuel enters heating unit oil burner (S, A).

Unprotected fuel supply line for the oil fired heating unit (e.g. no protective tube and/or not underground) (S, A).

No fire-o-matic safety valves exist at fuel tank/burner/heating unit (S, A).

No fire-resistant ceiling over the heating unit (S, A).

Gauge/pipe/fuel line problems/leaks on oil fired heating unit (S, A).

No barometric draft damper on oil fired heating unit (S, A).

Soot buildup in unit or flue pipe on oil fired heating unit (S, A).

Oil fired flame distorted in the firing chamber of heating unit (S, A).

Filter missing (S, A).

Filter(s) not properly placed on furnace(s) (M, A).

Filter not properly sized for furnace (S, A).

Air conditioning unit appears to have rusted parts of heat exchanger on heating unit‑have fuel company or contractor check for cracked heat exchanger (S, A).

Fan on heating unit is noisy (M, A).

Fan “V” belt loose/worn/shredded on heating unit (S, A).

Air conditioning unit not operating properly (M, C).

Apparently inadequate drainage on air conditioning unit condensate drainage system (S, A).

Inadequate drain line/pump for evaporator condensation (S, A).

Outdoor temperature too cool to allow for evaluation of central air conditioning.

Air conditioning oil heating elements not on for at least 24 hours prior to inspection and so air conditioning not evaluated

Air conditioner doesn’t blow cool air (M, A). This could involve requiring replacement of the entire air conditioning unit.

Temperature difference____________.

The air conditioner unit unusually noisy (M, A).

There is an apparent cross connection between the well water and municipally provided water supplies (S, A).

A lead service water supply line may exist in this house. Have this issue further evaluated by a qualified plumber (S, A).

Galvanized water supply piping has or will narrow internally due to rust, thus reducing flow and pressure. Recommend using water saver shower heads to reduce this effect at an important point (M, A).

Soldered copper water supply piping may allow lead to leach into water supply. Check with Poison Control to see whether such a condition is believed to represent a problem in your area (S, A).

Check with municipality about copper crimped plastic pipe (S, A).

Recommend pressure reducer before water heater line (M, B)

Some supply piping has some leaks in it (M, A).

Some supply piping corroded (M, A).

Special connections do not exist at point in the house plumbing to separate copper and steel supply piping (S, A).

Some exterior hose bibs are at risk of freezing in the winter. We are unable to identify any method for turning these hose bibs off to better avoid this risk in the winter (S, A).

Some copper piping in the house is hung with incompatible metal supports (S, A).

There is evidence that water hammer exists in the plumbing on this property. Contact a qualified plumber to have this issue further evaluated (M, A).

Improperly pitched/broken/loosely connected drainage pipe (S, A).

Some rust or corrosion evident on drainage piping (M, A).

Some stains/wet spots from possible leaks evident in drainage piping or surrounding material (e.g. wood) (M, A).

Drains or drainage vent pipes do not appear to be protected from possible freeze (S, A).

Septic holding tank uncovered/leaking/overflowing (S, A).

Septic holding tank pump problems (S, A).

Water conditioning system leaks (M, A).

No P trap on clothes washer drain (S, A).

”S” type trap exists on clothes washer drain (S, A).

Unvented dryer (S, A).

No electric dryer outlet (P, B).

Evidence of leaks in laundry (S, A)

No “leak” tray under non-ground level clothes washer (M, B).

Unanchored dryer outlet (S, A).

Dryer wire not conduited (S, A).

Building has fuses now or probably had fuses in the past, judging by its age, and is a risk that at some time the wiring was overloaded by using oversized fuses (e.g., placing a 30 amp fuse in a slot designed for only a 15 amp fuse). However evidence/no evidence was found of any resulting damage to insulation of wires inspected‑the most important concern in wiring that has been “overamped” (S, A).

Home has had panel box upgraded significantly from what is typical for this age home. Care should be taken to be sure circuits utilizing any old wiring in the home‑-probably 14 gauge-‑is connected to 15 amp breakers (S, A).

White wires are connected to non-GFCI breakers (S, A).

No main electrical switch which shuts off entire electrical service to building (S, A).

Wires entering through electrical panel box walls not protected by protective clamps (S, A).

There is some insulation damage to wires in the electrical panel box (S, A).

Unused breaker slot cover openings on panel cover (e.g., breaker removed without replacement cover at slot opening (S,A).

Some single strand aluminum wiring exists in the home. Obtain a Consumer Product Safety Commission pamphlet on this issue to be sure it will be properly corrected or call 1‑800‑522‑6752 to locate a qualified local electrician (S, A).

Some solid strand aluminum electrical wiring used. The Federal Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends that all aluminum wiring be corrected. A FCPSC pamphlet addressing this issue should be sought (S, A)..

The panel box does not have an adequate cover (S, A).

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter panel breaker failed (S, A).

Some breakers covered with tape. Ask the seller the possible reasons for this, have a qualified electrician evaluate further (S,A).

Some fuses burned or removed or breakers tripped (S, A).

Some fuses/breakers have amperage ratings above that for which the wiring was designed-‑this sometimes results in the loss of the insulation value for wires. In the case of fuses, recommend that special amperage selective inserts be used to prevent use of oversized fuses in future (some of these fuses are available with a reset switch that allows it to work as if it were a breaker). In the case of breakers, recommend that appropriate breakers be installed for the wire sizes (S, A).

Visible/No Visible evidence was found of insulation value loss in wires inspected.

There was some apparent evidence of arcs/burns inside the electrical panel box (S, A).

Lamp cord used in lieu of “hard wire” at panel box (S, A).

Overload unprotected connections (no fuses or breakers used) on wires connected at the service lugs inside the panel box (S, A).

The service wire amperage rating is lower than the amperage rating for the main disconnect (S, A).

A fuse “jumper” may exist in the panel box (e.g. a penny may exist under a fuse, a wire may be looping around fuse, etc.) (S,A).

Extensive evidence of water or rust exists inside of the panel box which may indicate a masthead/panel cover leak (S, A).

There is extensive dirt buildup inside the panel box (S, A).

Kitchen appliances circled are not fully operational: Range Oven Microwave Exhaust hood Refrigerator Food waste disposal Dishwasher Waste compactor Other (S, A)

Kitchen appliances circled are missing knobs/handles/grids/gaskets/shelves/trays/latches/doors/hinges/glass/other components: Range Oven Microwave Exhaust hood Refrigerator Food waste disposal Dishwasher Waste compactor Other (S, A).

Cabinets/shelving/curtains do not adequately clear above the kitchen range to help reduce fire risk (S, A).

Exhaust hood light does not work due to bulb out/broken switch/unknown factors (M, A).

Refrigerator is unplugged and so cannot be evaluated.

Inadequate ventilation to refrigerator coils (S, A).

Food waste disposal sounds rough and may need replacing (M, B).

Evidence of leaks at dishwasher (S, A).

Chipped/poorly anchored sink (P, C).

Kitchen sink drains slowly in or is plugged (M, A).

Water supply to house apparently not on. Contact seller to have turned on and carefully check for leaks at that time (S, A).

Fan noisy in kitchen (M, B).

Kitchen fan not fully operational (M, B).

Kitchen has a window to vent but the window apparently cannot be opened (M, B).

Corrosion apparent on water supply pipes in kitchen (M, A).

No supply shutoff valves for kitchen sink supply lines (M, B).

Inadequate pressure in kitchen supply lines (M, A).

Kitchen faucets/sprayer/water pipes leak/broken (M, A).

Evidence of current leaks/deterioration around kitchen drainage plumbing (M, A).

Apparent “S” trap on kitchen drain system (M, A).

Tape wrapped on kitchen sink drain (M, B).

Improper slope to kitchen drain lines (M, A).

Exposed/unconduited wire inside kitchen cabinets, etc. (S, A).

Broken/missing hinges/hardware on kitchen cabinetry (M, C)

Countertop has burns/cracks/chips (M, B).

Countertop is curling/loose (M, B).

Adhesive failure on kitchen formica countertop (M, B).

Kitchen countertop needs grout or caulking (M, B).

Creosote buildup in wood stove/insert (S, A).

Inadequate hearth width on wood stove/insert-‑less than 18 inches (S, A).

Wood stove/insert does not follow listing clearances to combustibles-‑remove or remodel (S, A).

Wood stove/insert does not follow recommended clearances to combustibles-‑check with manufacturer and/or remove or remodel (S, A).

Fireplace has creosote buildup‑have fireplace cleaned‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).

Firebrick deteriorating in fireplace‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).

Firebrick mortar deteriorating in fireplace‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).

Damper hardware damaged‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).

Damper hardware missing‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).

Inadequate hearth width on fireplace insert-‑less than 18 inches-‑level 1 2 3 4 5 (S, A).

INSTRUCTIONS: Defective items found in the following rooms are listed as codes (e.g., A, 3V, etc.). See the code listings below the room listing to identify what defect the code represents.

Room  Listing 

   

Hall__________      Kitchen___________          Formal  Dining  Room____________      Parlor__________

Living  Room__________        Den__________      Family  Room___________    Office__________Rec  Room__________        Workroom__________  Laundry  room__________      Toy  room__________

Bedrooms  (location/level):    Master____________      N  S  E  W      1  2  3  4  5___________  N  S  E  W      1  2  3  4  5___________

N  S  E  W      1  2  3  4  5___________  N  S  E  W      1  2  3  4  5___________      N  S  E  W      1  2  3  4  5___________

Throughout  house  with  few,  if  any,  exceptions:____________________________________

Baths:  Master  bath__________________________      Main  Full  bath_______________________

Basement  bath_____________________________    Half  bath__________________________

Other  baths  (location/level):    N  S  E  W      1  2  3  4  5________________      N  S  E  W      1  2  3  4  5___________________

Rooms 

Heat 

A    Heat  source  apparently  not  adequately  providing  heat  (M,  A).

B    Heat  source  not  visible  (S,  A).

C    Heat  vents  not  covered  (P,  B).

D    Heater  not  properly  vented  (S,  A).

Electrical 

E    Wire  connections  exposed  due  to  no  cover  over  outlet  box  (S,  A).

F    Wire  connections  exposed  due  to  no  cover  over  switch  box  (S,  A).

G    Lamp  cord  used  in  lieu  of  “hard  wire”  (S,  A).

H    Outlet  inoperable  (S,  A).

I    Inadequate  outlets  available  (S,  A).

  Outlet  broken  (S,  A).

K    Wires  taped  at  junctions  (S,  A).

L    Ungrounded  three  prong  outlets‑change  to  two  prong  outlet  or  establish  ground  to  outlet  (S,  A).

M    Reversed  electrical  polarity  in  outlet(s)  (S,  A).

N    Switch  possibly  defective  (S,  A).

O    Recommend  Ground  Fault  Circuit  Interrupter  Outlets  replace  three‑prong  or  convertible  two  prong  outlets  in  “wet”  areas  -‑  kitchens,  bathrooms,  exterior  and  garage  (S,  A).

P    Two  prong  electrical  outlets  exist  in  at  least  some  rooms.    If  you  are  planning  to  use  a  computer  or  other  appliances  which  require  three  prong  plugs,  you  may  find  that  you  must  modify  or  add  to  the  wiring  arrangement  (S,  A).

   

Walls 

Q    Minor  cracks  in  walls    (M,  A).

R    Evidence  of  leaks  at  wall  (M,  A).

S    Wallpaper  peeling  (P,  C).

T    Damaged  wall  materials  (P,  B).

   

Windows 

U    Some  windows  cracked/broken  (M,  B).

V    Some  double  pane  windows  have  evidence  of  condensation  (M,  C).

W    Numerous  windows  in  building  stick  and  are  at  least  difficult  to  open  (S  ‑if  sleeping  room,  A  ‑if  sleeping  room)

X    Some  casement  windows  have  damaged  hardware  (e.g.,  handles,  guides,  etc.)  (S,  A).

Y    Some  windows  are  not  sized/positioned  for  egress  (S,  A).

AA  Window  air  conditioning  unit  not  operable  (P,  C).

BB    Moisture  around  window  effecting  the  wall-‑this  could  be  caused  by  poor  window  seals  or  condensation  (M,  A).

   

Ceilings 

CC    Possible  asbestos  ceiling  texture.    In  order  to  determine  whether  the  ceiling  texture  is  actually  asbestos,  it  must  be  tested  by  an    appropriate  lab.    For  more  information  contact  an  industrial  hygienist  (see  Yellow  Pages)  (S,  A).

DD    Possible,  but  very  highly  unlikely  asbestos  ceiling  texture  (S,  A).

EE    Minor  cracks  in  ceiling    (M,  A).

FF    Evidence  of  previous  or  current  leaks  on  ceiling‑possibly  due  to  bathroom  or  kitchen  fixtures  above  (S,  A).

GG    Evidence  of  leaks  on  ceiling-‑possibly  due  to  previous  or  current  roof  covering  or  flashing  (needs  further  evaluation)  (S,  A).

HH    Damaged  ceiling  materials  (P,  C).

   

Closets 

II    No  closet  in  bedroom  (P,  B).

JJ    Closet  door(s)  not  fully  operational  (P,  B).

KK    Closet  door(s)  missing  (P,  B).

   

Other 

Floors 

LL    Evidence  of  previous  water  exposure-‑mildew-‑to  floor‑possibly  from  exterior  (ask  owner  about  possible  previous  infiltrations  of  water  and  see  downspout,  window  well  and  grading  issues.  Could  obtain  additional  evaluation  by  specialist)  (S,  A).

MM    Flooring  damaged  (S,  A).

NN    Some  flooring  not  attached  to  floor  (P,  C  but  may  represent  a  trip  hazard  (S,  A)  if  not  smoothly  laying  on  ground).

OO    Floor  sags  or  is  not  level  (S,  A).

Doors 

PP    Some  doors  damaged  (P,  C).

QQ    Door  knob  damaged  (P,  C).

RR    Door  knob  missing  (P,  C).

Bathrooms 

Water

SS    Chipped  sink  (P,  C).

TT    Sink  drains  slowly  or  is  plugged  (M,  A).

UU    Slow  draining  bathtub  (M,  A).

VV    Shower  head  not  operating  appropriately  (M,  A).

WW    Shower  door  not  fully  operational  (M,  B).

XX    Shower  valve  not  appropriately  operating  (M,  A).

YY    Toilet  may  need  reanchoring  (S,  A).

ZZ    Toilet  flushing  inadequately  (M,  A).

1    Some  fixtures  appeared  to  have  poor  pressure/flow.  Recommend  using  water  saver  shower  heads  to  reduce  this  effect  at  an  important  point  and/or  adjustment  of  in‑house  or  street  pressure  regulators  (S,  A).

2    Sink  faucet  system  damaged  (M,  A).

3    Tub  fixtures  damaged  (M,  A).

4    Shower  fixtures    damaged  (M,  A).

5    Toilet  running/valve  system  damaged  (M,  A).

   

Air 

6    Fan  noisy  or  not  fully  operational  (M,  B).

7    No  ventilation  in  bathroom  with  shower  (M,  B).

8    Window  not  movable  (M,  B).

   

Tile 

9    Tile  above  tub  needs  regrouting  or  caulking  (M,  A).

1M    Damaged  tub  surround  waterproof  materials-‑e.g.,  tile  waterproof  board,  plastic  etc.  (P,  B).

2M    Apparently  water  damaged  wall  next  to  tub  (M,  A).

3M    Shower  needs  regrouting  or  caulking  (M,  A).

4M    Shower  pan  leak  (S,  A).

5M    Apparently  water  damaged  wall  next  to  shower  (M,  A).

6M    At  least  some  parts  of  shower  walls  are  not  waterproof  (M,  A).

7M    Damaged  shower  waterproof  materials-‑e.g.,  tile  waterproof  board,  plastic  etc.  (P,  B).

8M    Countertop  has  burns  (M,  B).

9M    Countertop  has  chips  (M,  B).

1Q    Adhesive  failure  on  formica  countertop  (M,  B).

2Q    Countertop  needs  grout  or  caulking  (M,  B).

   

Floor 

3Q    Apparently  water  damaged  flooring  next  to  shower  (M,  A).

4Q      Mildew,  moisture  or  rust  below  shower  and/or  tub  at  walls  and  floor  (M,  A).

   

Leaks 

5Q    Evidence  of  current  leaks  around  some  faucets/valves  (M,  A).

6Q    Evidence  of  current  leaks  around  some  plumbing  drain  fixtures  (M,  A).

7Q    Tape  wrapped  on  sink  drain  (M,  B).

8Q    Improperly  pitched  drain  pipe  at  sink  (M,  A).

   

Safety  and  Drawers 

9Q    Bathtub  does  not  have  a  slip  resistant  floor  to  help  prevent  slip  injuries  (S  ,A).

1R    Bathtub  does  not  have  a  safety  handhold  to  help  prevent  slip  injuries  (S,  A).

2R    Shower  does  not  have  a  slip  resistant  floor  to  help  prevent  slip  injuries  (S,  A).

3R    Shower  does  not  have  a  safety  handhold  to  help  prevent  slip  injuries  (S,  A).

4R    Some  drawers  damaged  (M,B).

Other

5R    Apparently  water  damaged  flooring  next  to  tub  (M,  A).

6R    No  knob  locks  on  door  (P,  C).

NV=not  visible      NA=Not  Applicable   

Apparent  Wall  Type:  Brick/Block/Frame/Brick  Veneer/Earth/Earth  sheltered/Log/Other          /NV

Wall  Covering:    Brick      Brick  Veneer    Wood  clapboard    Wood  panels      Stucco        Metal

Insulated  Metal      Vinyl/plastic      Wood  shingles/shakes      Asbestos      Texture      Other       

Foundation:      Concrete      Block/brick    Stone      Other  NV

Driveways/Walkways:  Concrete/Asphalt/Dirt/Stone      Other 

Porches/Patios/Decks/Balconies:      Columns:  Metal/Wood/Indeterminable/NV

Roof:  “A”    Steep    Medium    Low    Pitched      Flat  Gable    Hip    Shed      Mansard      Gambrel

Asphalt  or  Fiberglass  Shingles    Wood  Shingles      Wood  Shakes    Tar  &  Gravel    Rolled

Metal    Clay      Vinyl      Plastic      Slate      Asbestos      Corrugate        Other 

Methods  used:  Binoculars    On  roof    Ladder  at  eave      Window    Other 

Gutters:  Metal  Wood  Other             

Electrical:  Underground      Overhead:    Riser      110  Volts    220  Volts      Fusses/Breakers  Operated:  Switches/Fixtures

Panel  Box  Loc.(s):Stairwell/Garage/Laundry/Bsmnt/Exterior/Hall/Closet/Furnace  room/Other 

N  S  E  W    level:  1  2  3  4  5    N  S  E  W    level:  1  2  3  4  5        Aluminum  Branch  Circuit  Wiring  Present

Service:    Alum./Copper      Main  Disconnect  Amps:  30  40  50  60  70  80  100  125  150  200  Other          None

Main  Disconnect  Location:    N  S  E  W    level:  1  2  3  4  5        Test:  GFCI  operation

Wiring  Method:  Romex/Cloth  insulated/Armored  Cable  (bx)/Knob  and  Tube/other

          Attic:  Inspection  method:  At  access  port    Access  obstructed/partially  obstructed      No  attic    Walking  in  attic      Entry  would  damage  property  (e.g.  insulation  would  be  disturbed)

Adverse/Dangerous  situations  suspected  (e.g.  no  floor  boards)

Ceiling  structure:  NV  Trusses/Joists      Roof  Structure:  NV  Trusses/Rafters    Sheathing/Batt  boards

Insulation:    NV  Cellulose    Fiberglass    Rockwool      Roll/batt    Loose  fill    Other        Approximate  thickness         

Vapor  barrier:    Not  visible/None/Incorrectly  placed

Water  Heater  Unit:Tank/Instantaneous  (tankless)    Potable  hot  water  from  heating  system  Size  40/50/60/other  gal.

Fuel:Natural  Gas/  Electricity/Propane/Wood/Coal/Kerosene/Solar/Oil  with  interior‑exterior  tank/Other         

Central  Heating:    Duct/distribution:  Sheet  metal/Sub‑Slab/Flexible/Pipe/Radiant  ceiling  plenum

Type:  Forced  air    Hot  Water:  Gravity/Circulating  pump    Steam    Heat  pump  (test  if  outside  >30    &  <  60    F)    Up/down/horiz.  draft    Hi/Medium  efficiency  “Octopus”  gravity/forced  air

Fuel:Natural  Gas/  Electricity/Propane/Wood/Coal/Kerosene/Solar/Oil  with  interior‑exterior  tank/Other       

          Central  Cooling:  Electric/Gas/Oil    Integral/Split      Temp.  <  60    F  or  unit  not  “warmed  up”  24  hrs.

Type:  Condenser/Chiller      Not  applicable          before  test  (do  not  test)

Smoke  Detectors:  Absent

Crawlspace:  Inspection  method:  No  crawlspace/At  port      Access  obstructed/partially  obstructed

Crawling/Walking  inside  crawlspace  Adverse/Dangerous  situation  suspected(waste,  minor  head/knee/hand  injury)

Vapor  barrier:    On  ground/Not  visible/None/Incorrectly  placed      Venting:      Yes      No

Basement/Crawlspace  Insulation:    NV  Cellulose    Fiberglass    Rockwool      Roll/batt    Loose  fill    Other         

          Floor/Ceiling  structure:  NV  Trusses/Joists  Underside  Upstairs  Floors:  NV  Batt  Plywood  Chipboard  Concrete

Vapor  Barrier:  Not  visible/None/Incorrectly  placed

Girders/Beams:  NV/Bearing  wall/Wood/Built‑Up  Joists/Solid  Beam/Laminated  Beam/Brick/Steel/Other     

Piers/Support  Posts:    NV/Bearing  wall/Wood/Masonry/Concrete/Other   

Footings:  NV/Masonry/Concrete/Other     

Water  supply:  Galvanized/Copper/Plastics    Other    NV

Main  Shut  off  Location:  Water  N  S  E  W    level:  1  2  3  4  5    Fuel    N  S  E  W    level:  1  2  3  4  5

Water  Drainage:  Cast  iron/Galvanized  Steel/Plastic/Copper/Lead/Steel/Other  /NV    Operate:  Sumps/NA

Fireplace/Solid  Fuel  Burning  Types:  Fireplace/Insert/Wood  Stove

Chimneys:  Masonry/Metal/Framed

Windows:  Slide/Casement/Fixed/Double-single  hung/  other

Garage  House  Door:      Solid  wood/Metal/  Other